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吴良材眼镜·南新雅旗舰店丨中国上海丨大宛设计

2023/04/08 18:18:00

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吴良材空间插画 /©️ DAYUAN 大宛设计

距今已有 300 多年历史的吴良材眼镜，是中国最具影响力的老字号之一。随着 Z 世代逐步影响主流消费市场，更多的消费者开始关注线下购物体验以及消费认同感，因此以验光专家著称的吴良材眼镜，以南京路上的旗舰店作为更新起点，开始探索自有文化的传承与年轻质感的设计如何相互结合，更轻盈地讲述老字号悠长的历史。

Liangcai Wu eyewear store, which has a history of over 300 years, is one of China’s most influential old brands. As the Z generation gradually influences the mainstream consumer market, more consumers are now concerned with offline shopping experiences and a sense of consumption identity. With this in mind, Liangcai Wu, renowned for its optometry expertise, has begun exploring how to merge the inheritance of its own culture with a youthful and fashionable design to more easily tell the story of its long history as an old brand. This quest starts with the flagship store on Nanjing Road.

玉石研磨艺术装置 /©️ yuuuun studio

美玉非天成，妙手巧雕琢。“雕琢”代表着吴良材对产品严苛的品牌精神。与其相同的可能就是在工匠手上，玉器自朴石至美玉的转变。三百年前的创始人吴良材先生家族也开始于玉器生意，也许这就是为何他要求用“匠心”来要求打造眼镜吧。

"Beautiful jade is not formed by the heavens, but rather carved by skillful hands."

"Carving" represents the brand spirit of Liangcai Wu’s strict requirements for products. Similar to this, it may be the transformation of jade from rough stones to beautiful jade in the hands of craftsmen. Three hundred years ago, the founder Mr. Wu’s family also started in the jade business, perhaps that’s why he demanded the use of "ingenuity" to make eyewear at the Liangcai Wu eyewear store.

VIP 试戴区细部 /©️ yuuuun studio

大宛设计尝试传达品牌想要表述的精神，用空间带领人们走过玉器雕琢的全过程：一层入口，以石山与石洞作为场景，打造原始质感的采石场景，墙体表面的粗糙质地与不规则缝隙，是自然在时间中的沉淀与工匠开采留时留下的痕迹；空间尽头是一台以千年之前玉器研磨器为原型的装置，在细腻研磨声音中，人们穿过一条时光走廊到达二层——经过时间处理的玉面与现代的空间结合在一起，变成了百年老字号年轻的样子。

Dayuan Design aims to convey the brand’s essence through spatial design, leading visitors through the entire process of jade carving. The entrance on the first floor features scenes of mountains and caves, creating a primitive quarry atmosphere with rough textures and irregular gaps on the wall surface that represent the marks left by nature and craftsmen over time. At the end of the space is a device modeled after a jade grinder from thousands of years ago. In the delicate sound of grinding, visitors pass through a corridor of time to reach the second floor where time-processed jade is combined with modern space, giving the century-old brand a youthful look.

一楼艺术装置展示与咖啡空间 /©️ yuuuun studio

咖啡厅座椅细部 /©️ yuuuun studio

开架眼镜区 /©️ yuuuun studio

开架眼镜区/©️ yuuuun studio

在有限的零售区域中，大宛设计尽可能在表述新潮与传统、精致与粗旷的对等融合。对于 300 年的老字号来说，传统是不能洗去的印记，并且在时间的加持下成为了独特的样子。

In the limited retail area, Dayuan Design strives to balance novelty and tradition, exquisiteness and roughness. For a 300-year-old brand, tradition is an indelible mark that becomes a unique feature with the passage of time.

中药柜和空间 /©️ yuuuun studio

空间细部 /©️ yuuuun studio

从别具中国特色的陈列——中药箱、中药柜中，大宛设计重新组织模数语言，使它们成为更为现代、更适合眼镜的展示与储藏方式。与金属质感的小配件一起，点缀整个灰色冷静的空间体块。

Using traditional Chinese medicine boxes and cabinets, Dayuan Design has reorganized the modular language to create a modern and practical way to display and store eyewear. The small metal accessories add a touch of decoration to the overall cool and gray space.

VIP 试戴区 /©️ yuuuun studio

对于吴良材来说，这不仅仅是一个眼镜店，而是一个能让新老顾客享受配镜购镜整个过程的综合空间。人们通过定期举办的眼镜展来体验不同眼镜的文化，与艺术装置交互来提升对品牌故事的理解，更可以在挑选以及等待验配的过程中来一杯咖啡，让吴良材成为一个新老顾客都能觉得“值得逛”的眼镜店。

For Liangcai Wu, this is not just an eyewear store, but a comprehensive space that allows new and old customers to enjoy the entire process of fitting and purchasing glasses. People can experience the culture of different glasses through regularly held eyewear exhibitions, interact with art installations to enhance their understanding of the brand story, and even have a cup of coffee while picking and waiting for the fitting, making Liangcai Wu an eyewear store that both new and old customers can feel “worth browsing.”

试戴区、陈列区 /©️ yuuuun studio

在现今的老字号设计中，除了需要融合原有的传统背景与现代元素，打造兼具历史感和时尚感的零售空间外，更加多的是提供多样的文化输出，增加顾客购物的趣味性与信任背书。

In today’s design for traditional brands, it is important not only to blend the original traditional background with modern elements to create a retail space that combines a sense of history and fashion, but also to provide a diverse cultural experience that increases customer interest and builds trust.

为了让空间更富有故事性，我们结合吴良材“研磨”相关的品牌故事和它自有的 IP“吴老爷”，设计了三个有趣的艺术交互装置：

To make the space more story-driven, we combined the brand story of “grinding” related to Liangcai Wu and its proprietary IP “Old Master Wu” to design three interesting interactive installations:

名称：采山

材料：综合材料

规格：H1200 * W560 * D560

“同质化的材料千篇一律，而良材需要万里挑一。”“采山”艺术装置是从吴良材“选用良材”的宗旨出发，表达吴老爷严选优质的镜片用材的匠心本真，也造就了品牌 300 年的标杆特质。

Name: Mountain Harvesting

Material: Composite material

Specification: H1200*W560*D560

“The same material is monotonous, but Liangcai needs to be selected from thousands of miles away.” The Mountain Harvesting art installation starts from Wu Liangcai’s tenet of “choosing high-quality lens materials” and expresses the true ingenuity of Mr. Wu’s meticulous selection of high-quality lens materials, which has also created the benchmark characteristics of the brand for 300 years.

名称：研磨器

材料：综合材料

规格：H1970 * W2520 * D1020

“是毫厘之间的精细，是细微之处的精神。”对镜片制造工艺的打磨与研究，尝试将手作匠人的心性与精神境界完整的展现出来。

设计灵感来源于仰韶文化晚期距今 5000 多年的玉石工坊，其原型再现了玉石器制作的工艺流程：开料、制坯、修整成型、磨制、钻孔、刻花等，展现了人们在千年前对产品的繁复与执着。在此概念之上设计的研磨器装置也尝试呈现出吴良材品牌如匠人一般对验配的专注。

Name: Grinding Machine

Material: Composite material

Specification: H1970 * W2520 * D1020

“Precision within millimeters, spirit within the subtleties.” In the pursuit of lens manufacturing, the art of polishing and studying aims to fully demonstrate the mindset and spiritual realm of the skilled craftsman.

The design inspiration comes from the jade workshop of the late Yangshao Culture more than 5000 years ago, and its prototype reproduces the production process of jade ware: material selection, shaping, refining, polishing, drilling, carving, etc., demonstrating the complexity and dedication of people towards products thousands of years ago. Building on this concept, the grinding device designed attempts to showcase the same level of dedication and attention to detail as artisans who carefully check and match materials for their craft in the Wu Liang Cai brand.

名称：万象镜

材料：综合材料

规格：H2352 * W1438 * D600

“镜”观万象，万象如在镜中，用眼镜观察世间万象，方寸之间，世界尽收眼底；“镜”显万象，万象就在镜中，眼镜赋予人们平等交流的能力，将信息完整的呈现在人们面前。

“眨眨眼，看一看世界”——人们站在万象镜装置前，只要做出戴眼镜的动作，就可以发现你的眼睛会随机变成任何生物。

Name: Lens for Everything

Material: Composite material

Specification: H2352*W1438*D600

The glasses reflects everything, everything appears in the glasses. With glasses, one can observe everything in the world and see the world in a grain of sand; with glasses, one can communicate equally and present information completely in front of people.

“Blink and take a look at the world”——people stand in front of the Mirror of Everything installation, as long as they make the action of putting on glasses, they can find that their eyes will randomly turn into any creature.