世亨饭店远洋太古里店丨中国成都丨唐嘉駿,刘芮言

● “桃李春风一杯酒，江湖夜雨十年灯。”这句出自黄庭坚的诗句，曾经伴随我度过了“为赋新词强说愁”的青春岁月。

“With a glass of wine and surrounded in the fragrance of peaches and plums blowing with the spring breeze, I spent 10 years of my life in the company of night lamps and rainfalls.” The poem by Mr. Huang Tingjian accompanied me in my youthful years when I was driven by “expressing the disguised melancholy mood just to write poems”.

成都，对我而言不仅仅是场所、氛围与人的关系，更沉淀了我的味觉和视觉的记忆。

For me, Chengdu not only embodies relations among venues, atmosphere, and people. It also fills my memory with taste and visual.

几十年后的今天，旧时的成都早已发生了沧桑巨变，曾经熟悉的街道、游玩的场所已不复原貌，唯一可以追忆的，可能是仅存留在味蕾中的回忆，连同它发生的是场景、情绪、情感和故事的镌刻，难以抹去！

In the past decades, Chengdu has experienced fundamental changes, in which the once-familiar neighborhoods and places of entertainment have erased their original look. Only the memory of taste, the scenes, moods, emotions, and stories, which are difficult to be erased, remain.

●

很多外地人对我说：

成都味道就是川味，

就是麻辣，我对此笑

而不答，因为我深知带

有浓厚地方性格和气

质的“味道”，蕴含着很

多人和事，要让人理解，

只能浸润在“味道”中

去体味、去感受……。

Many non-Chengduese

have told me that

Chengdu taste is

the spiciest and

hottest of Sichuan cuisine.

After hearing such

comments, I just smile and

don’t respond because the “taste” of strong local

personality and

temperament carries the

elements of people and

things. To comprehend

these elements,

we have to immerse

ourselves in the “taste”

to experience and feel.

每个人都有一种“怀恋过

去”的本能，它是城市

记忆连同它的味道结

成一体，浓缩进血

液和生命的气息中，

须臾不可分离。

Everyone has the instinct

of “thinking fondly of the

past” by combining the

memory of the place with

the taste, and that

becomes a part of life.

The memory stays

with us forever.

在成都的时尚街区太古里

B1中里的在拐角处，远

远望去，一个由数重

精致的木杆叠合而成

的屋檐，好似老成都街野

的茅屋顶，低调而安静

的卷缩在太古里时尚、

当代街区的人行道上，

仿佛它就生长在这里，

含蓄而温暖，毫不拘谨。

At the corner of the B1

Central Part of Taikoo Li,

a fashionable block in

Chengdu, from a distance,

the eaves made of several

delicate wooden poles

resemble the thatched

roofs of the old Chengdu

streets, growing in a

subtle, warm and

unpretentious way.It

seems the eaves

were born here, looking

reserved and heartwarming without feeling restrained.

●周边用尺度考究的遮阳篷布，与太古里街宽形成合理的软、硬和尺度与应答关系，转角处乳白色的灯箱自然而典雅地写作“世亨饭店”，宛若旧时乡野的招幌，让人心生安宁，并使饭店融入街区的生态环境之中，而不是像太古里其他店一样，仅仅成为一个拼贴。

The sunshade canvas with exquisite dimensions, together with the wide streets in Taikoo Li, establishes the rational relations of softness, hardness, and response. The milk white light box in the corner, which carries the four Chinese characters saying Shiheng Restaurant in a natural and graceful way, is just like the countryside shop sign in the old times. It makes people feel peaceful from inside, and helps the restaurant naturally integrate into the surrounding environment. However, the signs of other shops in Taikoo Li are just collages.

在设计师刘芮言和唐家骏的引领和介绍下，我在店内游走了一圈后，越发喜爱空间所散发出来的简朴、温润和不事张扬的氛围。“世亨饭店”的檐下，座位的视线与街区来来往往的行色形成自然交流，设计师用成都独有的人文氛围，自然地用“外摆”的方式处理了“世亨饭店”的“灰空间”，弥合了现代都市的冷漠。

I was shown around the restaurant by designers Liu Ruiyan and Tang Jiajun and got more attracted by the plain, mild, and low-profiled atmosphere of the space. Under the eaves of Shiheng Restaurant, the vision of sitting on the chairs formed a natural bond with the people walking on the street. Taking advantage of the cultural atmosphere unique to Chengdu, the designers handle the “gray space” in Shiheng Restaurant by providing “outdoor placing,” thus compensating for the indifference in modern cities.

正如芦原义信在名著《外部空间设计》中所说：“把整个用地作为一座建筑来考虑设计时，可以说这才是外部空间设计的开始。”

Just as Yoshinobu Ashihara says in his famous book Exterior Design in Architecture, “When considering the design by deeming the land plot as a building, we are just starting to design the outer space.”

进入内堂，设计师用成都传统餐饮场所常用的“幺楼”形式，将内外用声音和视觉连接起来，市井味十足，传统民间餐饮氛围与人文厚度在不知不觉中升腾。

Stepping into the lobby, I found the designers have adopted the form of Yao Building often seen in traditional restaurants in Chengdu, which connects the internal and external environment with sound and visual, thus producing the very strong sense of worldly elements. Before I realize it, the atmosphere of the traditional catering business and cultural depth have enveloped me.

店内，成都茶馆的老虎灶、有着孩提们调皮印迹的木质边台和略显紧密的过道，都是设计师刻意而为的结果。

In the restaurant, the designers have created the Tiger Oven, often seen in Chengdu tea house, the wooden side table with the mischievous marks of children, and the slightly narrow passages.

● 内堂空间的光线是羸弱的，只有在这样的条件下，市井的流言才能得以传播。灯光，就这样一直延伸到户外的灯笼，让远途的旅人以召唤的标志，让人们在雨夜和步履匆匆之间可以预见那里可以“打尖”、“歇足”，这才是人间。设计师在“世亨饭店”，用旧时的用光方式传播着当代情怀。

当我表达出对这种不露痕迹设计方式的喜爱时，刘芮言却说：“设计只能解决‘设计’可以解决的问题，一切设计的成功，首先是内容输出的成功。”

● 你今天看到世亨饭店的状态，首先来自于老板的执着与情怀。”说着，她让出身旁一位年青但美丽的女士说：“这位才是世亨饭店的灵魂！” The Shiheng Restaurant you see today is due to the persistence and emotion of the owner.” With these words, she introduced a young and beautiful female, saying: “She is the soul of Shiheng Restaurant!”

这时，我才关注到站在刘芮言身旁的女士，只见她穿着时尚、得体，姣好的面容充满沉稳、包容的神情，但是，我怎么也和一位餐饮名家的第四代传人联系不起来。 Only then I noticed the woman standing next to Liu Ruiyan. Wearing stylish clothes, she had a pretty face, which had an air of calmness and serenity. However, I found it hard to believe when I was told she was the fourth-generation owner of a famous restaurant.

女士告诉我，他们家的菜品出自眉山，是祖传的味道与手艺，厨师师傅都是跟随他们家几十年的老师傅，这时，我恍然大悟，为什么“世亨饭店”的菜品和它通过空间，散发出来“地道”的成都味道和气质，虽然不言不语，但是却俘获了众多对这座城市的美好无比怀念。The owner told me the dishes served in her restaurant were inherited from her ancestors from the Meishan Mountain. She said the chefs have been working for her for decades. I suddenly realized why the dishes of Shiheng Restaurant breathe the “genuine” Chengdu taste and temperament. Though remaining silent, they do capture the most beautiful memories of the city.

她对我说；坊间传闻的川菜或川味，其实分为上河帮、下河帮和外河帮三种类型。其中，以眉山和乐山为代表的上河帮川味，讲求味道的层次与平衡，而不求味型的霸道和浓烈，犹如涓涓细流、沁人心脾，像极了成都人的处事态度，闲雅中讲求余味无穷，层次分明绝不凌弱，一道简单的“鱼香肉丝”、“豆汤饭”，都在平常中追求自然和意料之外，因此，上河帮的“川味”，是具有成都人文气质的味道。

“世亨饭店”取自她太爷爷的名字，为了一种传统、一种自律，也是一种纪念。我听过之后，反身再次品味“世亨饭店”四个字，感受到一种纯粹、质朴和平正的雅致，感受得到成都文化的魅力。

这种魅力是在阴翳、优雅与不争中生长的，是一种无形的高度和淡淡的亲切，是一种温润的暖意，犹如一位长辈拍拍你的肩膀，然后转身离去。

This charm grows in the shade, while standing aloof from worldly success. It represents the invisible height, a touch of kindness, and gentle warmth, just like an elderly person patting you on the shoulder and then turning and leaving.

入夜后的成都，在喧嚣背后是可以让人安眠的宁静，小雨在夜间浸润心田，无数轻快进入梦中。

The night in Chengdu is chaotic, but there’s tranquility that helps people fall into sleep. Showers infiltrate the heart at night, and countless scenes enter the dream briskly.

那是“世亨饭店”的香味、那是梆子声和布面鞋底摩擦石子路面沙沙声响，还有为旅人永远亮着的那盏泛着微光的灯。

It is the flavor in Shiheng Restaurant, the sound of Pang-tzu (the watchman’s clapper), and the sound of clothes rustling against stones on the road, and the dim light that is always on for people travelling on their way.

项目名称：

世亨饭店远洋太古里店

PROJECT：

ShiHeng Restaurant Taikoo Li

项目地点：

中国 成都 远洋太古里 B1 M052C

LOCATION:

B1 M052C Taikoo Li ChengDuChina

设计面积：255㎡

SIZE: 255SQM

设计时间：2020 年 8 月

DESIGN: 8 / 2020

开业时间：2021 年 1 月

OPENING: 1/ 2021

主持设计：唐嘉駿/ 刘芮言

CHIEF DESIGNER: Jiajun Tang / Rene

项目管理与深化：项目组长但莎

PM AND DEEP ：Project leader Dana

家具及装置设计：树下时上

FURNITURE AND EQUIPMENT DESIGN: TimeStone Design

灯光照明艺术设计：蜂鸟设计

ILLUMINATION DESIGN：HDC Design

撰文：张轶青

BEWRITE：ZhangYi Qing

特别鸣谢：摄影师 贺川

SPECIAL THANKS TO: photographer HeChuan