《克里斯汀·迪奥:梦之设计师》展览丨日本东京丨OMA+Shohei Shigematsu

迪奥品牌建立在克里斯汀·迪奥的重塑精神和全球时尚影响力之上，迪奥先生作为品牌创始人，以一己之力为时尚界的发展作出了巨大的贡献，其创意生涯可谓传奇。在此前迪奥的巡展中，于丹佛艺术博物馆和达拉斯艺术博物馆举办的《从巴黎到世界》奠定了展览连续的叙事脉络，每个展厅中的服装和艺术品以流畅的时间线无缝衔接在一起，在统一的背景环境下熠熠生辉，向大众展示出迪奥自创建以来70多年的历史。

The House of Dior is built upon Christian Dior’s spirit of reinvention and global reach in fashion, a legacy that simultaneously persists and evolves with the contributions of individual creative directors. The scenography for Dior: From Paris to the World at the Denver Art Museum and Dallas Art Museum defined continuous narrative journeys—in each, a seamless path and unified backdrop for garments and artworks that reflected over 70 years of The House of Dior.

▼《克里斯汀·迪奥：梦之设计师》展览，Christian Dior: Designer Of Dreams © Daici Ano_Courtesy Dior

▼展览入口，entrance of the exhibition © Daici Ano_Courtesy Dior

▼展陈设计与建筑结构的结合，combination of scenography design and building structure © Daici Ano_Courtesy Dior

日本作为此次展览的东道主，有着前沿的创新技术与丰富的传统文化，而此次《克里斯汀·迪奥：梦之设计师》展也将反映出该时尚品牌在历史和当代背景下的多样性。展陈的设计构想超越了传统的白色立方体画廊，旨在创造出身临其境且多样化的视觉与空间体验。整个展览如同一系列精心布置过的舞台，空间于光明与黑暗之间过渡，将宏伟的空间体验与亲密的感知尺度有机结合在一起。

▼分析图，diagram © OMA + Shohei Shigematsu

In Japan, a country of both technological innovation but also a rich, traditional culture, the exhibition design for Christian Dior: Designer of Dreams reflects a diverse multiplicity within historic and contemporary contexts simultaneously. The scenography reimagines the white-cube gallery beyond its limits to provide an immersive and varied experience more akin to set design with rooms transitioning between light and dark, intimate and grand, organic and orthogonal.

▼展览入口，entrance area © Daici Ano_Courtesy Dior

▼展览现场，exhibition © Daici Ano_Courtesy Dior

此次展览坐落于东京都现代美术馆（MOT），22个主题展览空间被规划在一系列独立的、特定的、沉浸式环境中。布景设计采用了不同的技术、材料或主题，并突出了日本传统文化与迪奥历史和当代系列作品之间的联系。已知元素的视觉和空间品质，以及例如：障子(日本房屋用的纸糊木框) 以及Nebuta灯笼等日式传统建筑元素被刻意强调出来，并以现代的设计语言进行了全新的诠释。熟悉而神秘的构造景观创造出一系列独特的沉浸式展览环境，为展览中讲述的故事赋予了强大的张力。

▼分析图，diagram © OMA + Shohei Shigematsu

Across two floors of the MOT, 22 curatorial themes are deployed into separate, specific, immersive environments. The set designs utilize different techniques, materials, or motifs referential to elements shared between Japanese tradition and culture and Dior history and contemporary collections. Visual and spatial qualities of known elements and construction techniques like Shoji screens and Nebuta1 floats are manipulated, exaggerated, and shaped into contemporary forms. Familiar and enigmatic, the constructed landscapes create a series of distinct and immersive environments and a new set of surfaces to expand storytelling capacity.

▼沉浸式环境，immersive environments © Daici Ano_Courtesy Dior

▼布料与杂志，cloth and magazines © Daici Ano_Courtesy Dior

▼天花板采用了日式剪纸元素，japanese paper-cut elements are used on the ceiling © Daici Ano_Courtesy Dior

在展览的关键主题之一“迪奥和日本”中，一条蜿蜒的小路串联起一系列“口袋”展览空间，类似于日本茶园中的车站，沿着水平与垂直方向徐徐展开。天竺棉与绫神和纸包裹在木制龙骨之上，内侧还设置了灯光照明，进而为前景中的服装与文物展品创造出具有丰富层次感的发光背景。投射在各种材质表面的三维景观则进一步激活了展览空间。

▼分析图，diagram © OMA + Shohei Shigematsu

In one of the key themes of the exhibition, “Dior and Japan”, a winding path and pockets for display along it, akin to stations of the Japanese Tea Garden, is expanded vertically and horizontally. The wooden structure is wrapped in backlit Tenjiku fabric and Awagami washi paper, creating a layered, luminous backdrop for the garments and artifacts. The three-dimensional landscape is projected onto with various patterns and motifs to further activate the space.

▼“迪奥和日本”，“Dior and Japan” © Daici Ano_Courtesy Dior

▼日式元素，japanese elements © Daici Ano_Courtesy Dior

在“迪奥传承”中，一系列展览空间统一在同一的背景下，这些展场是专门为迪奥的七位创意总监设计的。在此空间中，设计从日式房屋中的拉阖门（fusuma）与“簾”（sudare）中提取灵感，将放大的服装作品照片作为每个独立空间的分隔，进而在同一空间中创造出多个独立的展览环境。用于分割空间的屏幕上印着高木百合子（Yuriko Takagi）的传奇照片，以摄影的方式创造出另一种叙事媒介，从实现了从一个创意总监展览单元到另一个创意总监展览单元的起承转合。

“The Dior Legacy” is a unified framework of a series of spaces dedicated to the House of Dior’s seven creative directors. Enlarged fabric panels are deployed as enfilade dividers that draw from fusuma and Sudare hanging panels commonly used in Japanese interiors to organize multiple environments in a single space. The screens used to segment the space are printed with larger-than-life photographs by Yuriko Takagi, creating an additional narrative medium that provides a visual understanding of the continuity from one creative director to another.

▼“迪奥传承”，“The Dior Legacy” © Daici Ano_Courtesy Dior

▼设计从日式房屋中的拉阖门（fusuma）与“簾”（sudare）中提取灵感，enfilade dividers that draw from fusuma and Sudare hanging panels © Daici Ano_Courtesy Dior

▼七位创意总监的独立展览空间，independent exhibition space for seven creative directors © Daici Ano_Courtesy Dior

▼近景，closer view © Daici Ano_Courtesy Dior

▼高木百合子（Yuriko Takagi）的传奇照片墙，legendary photos of Yuriko Takagi © Daici Ano_Courtesy Dior

在“迪奥舞会”主题展中，博物馆的“楼板”被提升并倾斜放置，从对角线上平分了阁楼空间，进而创造了一种立体的展示模式。从地板到天花板形成了一个单一的大斜坡，斜坡上站满了身着迪奥华服的模特，观众们则在斜坡的下方或连桥上观赏着这只声势浩大的“舞会队伍”，堪称是展览中最宏伟的布景。斜坡顶部的镜面无限地延续了空间的几何形态，以一种意想不到的方式反射出服装展品，创造出超乎日常的视觉透视效果。

▼分析图，diagram © OMA + Shohei Shigematsu

The “floor” of the museum atrium is lifted and sloped to bisect the lofted space diagonally, creating a double-sided display. The top becomes a single, grand slope for “The Dior Ball”, the grandest set of the exhibition, where mannequins in gowns climb up as spectators view their “procession” from below or above from a bridge. An angled mirror at the top of the slope continues the geometry infinitely and reflects the garments and scenography in an unexpected way.

▼“迪奥舞会”，“The Dior Ball” © Daici Ano_Courtesy Dior

▼灯光效果，lighting effect © Daici Ano_Courtesy Dior

斜坡的下方为“世界各地的迪奥”，这是一处相对来说更加亲密的展览环境，在这里，游客将步入一个由多层织物饰面组成的穹顶房间，动画投影进一步活化了这个独特的半球形展览空间。

A more intimate environment is inserted underneath for “Dior around the World.” Visitors step into a domed room comprised of layers of concentric fabric surfaces, forming a scenographic hemisphere with animated projections.

▼“世界各地的迪奥”，“Dior around the World” © Daici Ano_Courtesy Dior

▼半球形展览空间，domed room comprised of layers of concentric fabric surfaces © Daici Ano_Courtesy Dior

▼灯具细部，details of the lanterns © Daici Ano_Courtesy Dior

除上述展厅之外，还有其他九座展厅，丰富的主题与独特的环境共同造就了多样化的展览场景。这些展厅将带领参观者们一同回顾迪奥品牌的历史，同时也将向大众揭示迪奥品牌与日本文化之间的多层面联系。

Together with nine other rooms, a sequence of themes and distinct environments comprise a diverse exhibition scenography. The rooms collectively take visitors through a journey of discovery through the history of the House of Dior, revealing the multifaceted relationship between the House and Japan against contemporary juxtapositions.

▼其他主题展厅，other exhibition rooms  © Daici Ano_Courtesy Dior

▼女士手包展厅，exhibition room of women’s handbags  © Daici Ano_Courtesy Dior

▼其他主题展厅，other exhibition rooms  © Daici Ano_Courtesy Dior

▼展厅与摄影作品，exhibition room and photography © Daici Ano_Courtesy Dior

CREDITS OMA New York Partner: Shohei Shigematsu Associate: Christy Cheng Project Architect: Jesse Catalano Team: Tim Ho, Jintong Duan, Janet Lu, Hangsoo Jeong, Byron Cai, Eugene Kim Christian Dior Couture Gérald Chevalier, Hélene Starkman, Daphné Catroux, Alice Gariepy, Alice Lefevre, Anne-Charlotte Mercier, Stéphanie Pélian, Charlotte Rezé, Isabelle Rousset Curator Florence Müller Artists Featured Kiri-e Artist: Ayumi Shibata Photographer: Yuriko Takagi Production NPU Corporation: Noriyuki Asano, Tadahiro Konoe, Hisashi Shima, Mami Takezaki, Hidemitsu Sato, Przemek Sobocki Mounting Agence Alighieri: Noemi Bourgeois, Simon Jaffort Construction Branco Inc.: Hideki Furuya, Kengo Takagi, Kim Dong Woo, Kenji Nishihara TSUMURA KOGEI Co. Ltd: Keiji Ueyama, Yasuharu Takekawa, Masahumi Kawazoe Transportation and Installation Yamato Transport Co., Ltd. LP Art Projections NOLL Inc.: Takuro Kawashima, Hijiri Kato, Hiroto Kojima, Ikuya Takahashi, Shota Yamamoto, Kenjiro Yagi TAKENAKA Co. Ltd: Masahiro Fumita, Taiki Nishikido, Yasushi Sera, Kotaro Takaie, Mamoru Sakagami Lighting and Sound Design HEART-S GROUP: Sousuke Tanaka, Masao Otomo, Tatsuaki Sakaguchi, Takefumi Baden, Yuri Kawakami, Nozomi Takebayashi, Akio Hasebe Headpieces Stephen Jones