建筑摺痕&ANEST Collective品牌店丨中国上海丨水相设计

前往今昔并存的上海新天地，若想寻觅一处把故事说得难忘的场域，地图上必得替时尚品牌ANEST COLLECTIVE设下标注。有别于知名精品或街头潮牌，ANEST COLLECTIVE强调义大利高级订制服，不急趋喧哗潮流快速变异的服装轮廓和色彩偏好，低调而专注透过生活积蕴的审美目光，透过服饰、艺术品、家具与建筑元素融会出一方叙事空间，让人享受美学里的雍容与自由。

In SHANGHAI XINTIANDI where the past meets the present, if you are looking for a site that tells unforgettable stories, the map must be tagged with the fashion brand – ANEST COLLECTIVE. Neither a well-known boutique nor a street fashion brand, ANEST COLLECTIVE is a unique Italian luxury brand that offers high-quality ready-to-wear collections. Instead of following the bustling trend of fast-changing silhouette and color preferences, it remains low-key and focused on the aesthetic vision that is accumulated through life, and creates a narrative space through the fusion of the elements of clothing, artwork, furniture and architecture This is the place where people can enjoy the grace and freedom of aesthetics.

▼建筑外观，exterior view © 鲁芬芳

街景 · 阶景 Streetscape · Staircases

服装是流动的建筑，从最微小的纺纱结构乃至于陈列空间，ANEST COLLECTIVE欲呈现的是一种基本却不简单的工艺气质。负责创造空间的水相设计，凭借品牌根基义大利美学及工作坊的叙事背景，将创意概念扩及城市地貌，令人仰望的建筑群由大大小小的广场和阶梯串起，阶间平台亦成随兴席地而坐的风景，游历任一人文古城，必得一阶一阶体验历史的立体细节。

▼设计示意，concept © 水相设计

Clothing is a mobile building. From the tinniest spinning structure to the display space of the store, ANEST COLLECTIVE presents the basic but not simple craftsmanship. Responsible for creating space, WATERFROM DESIGN extends the creative concept to the urban landscape based on the narrative background of the brand’s foundations – Italian aesthetics and workshops. The impressive buildings are strung together by large and small squares and stairs, the platform between which becomes the place to sit on, and ancient cultural cities are the destinations to visit; each stair presents three-dimensional details of the history.

▼室内空间概览，interior general view © 鲁芬芳

▼从一层望向街道，view to the street © 鲁芬芳

▼一层空间，ground floor space © 鲁芬芳

我们将地景语汇转化为室内建筑的剖面布局，不仅刻意凸显阶梯轮廓，又将阶面的切割比例压缩或延伸成商品展台与家具柜体，翻转向度成为门斗、墙的进退面甚至天花板的阶面律动层次。一座座格放或缩小的阶梯与平台，重现略去繁冗细节的城市起伏，而阶的阳角替室内创造如雕塑的立体细节，它们串连起一种观看节奏，错位与延伸，使人跟随梯面转折不自觉扭转对重力的认知，如同踏入MC Escher的迷幻画作，即便望着嘎然而止的阶梯断点，也想一窥另一视角的立面模样。

▼轴测图，axon

We transform the landscape vocabulary into the cross-sectional layout of the indoor building, not only deliberately highlighting the outline of the stairs, but also compressing or extending the cutting ratio of the stairs into commodity display cases and furniture cabinets, turning the dimension into a porch, the recessed facades of the wall and even the rhythmic level of the ceiling’s stair surface. The stairs and platforms that are placed or scaled down to reproduce the city’s ups and downs without the tedious details, and the sunny corners of the stairs help the interior create sculpture-like stereoscopic details. They connect like a kind of viewing rhythm, dislocation and extension, which makes people follow the turning of the stairs and unconsciously twist their perception of gravity, just like stepping into a psychedelic painting of MC Escher. Even if you look at the abruptly stopped ladder break-point, you also want to get a glimpse of the facade from another perspective.

▼阶梯和展台，staircase and display cases © 鲁芬芳

光影揉杂出时间的皱褶 Light and Shadow Knead out the Wrinkles of Time

同时，梯面间的阴影在室内晕出深景浅像，透过影子，能感知建筑的高低与雕刻力道，在虚无里堆叠出实体的重量，在涨退之际指出时间的方向。这些耐人寻味的深邃，丰富了不同阶梯剖面、俯面的视觉层次。画面静止、岁月静好，它让光有了故事的轮廓。

At the same time, the shadows between the stairs faint deep or shallow images indoors. Through the shadows, you can perceive the height of the building and the power of the sculptures, stack the weight of the entity in the void and point out the direction of time when they rise and fall. This thought-provoking profoundness enriches the visual levels of different stairs’ cross-sectional and top views. The picture is still, and the years are tranquil, endowing the light with the outline of the story.

▼梯面间的阴影在室内晕出深景浅像，the shadows between the stairs faint deep or shallow images indoors © 鲁芬芳

▼光影细节，detailed view © 鲁芬芳

为了呈现凿刻城市的纯净轮廓，我们选择不同质地的白色阶来堆叠色彩布局，如同艺术家Malevich画作《White on White》欲以纯粹几何及单色阶叙述抽离情绪的艺术原点，但颜料的薄擦浓涂在这空间中转由不同纹理的石材、漆面与织品来表现，在厚度各异的白色转折里，光线来去如淡淡涂抹的粉彩，柔软而朦胧。简化色彩回归造型最宁静的状态后，室内建筑犹如未上釉的素胚，使观者专注于形体及量感带来的美学初衷。

In order to present the pure outline of the carved city, we choose white scales of different textures to stack the color layout, just like the painting White on White of the artist Malevich who wants to use pure geometry and monochromatic scales to describe the artistic origin of emotional detachment, but in this space, the thick or thin paint is represented in different textures of stone, lacquer and fabric. In the transitions of various thicknesses of white color, the light comes and goes like a lightly smeared pastel, soft and hazy. After the color is simplified and the shapes are retreated to the most tranquil state, the interior architecture is like an unglazed plain embryo, so that the viewers can thus focus on the aesthetic original intention brought by the sense of form and volume.

▼一层楼梯，staircase on the ground floor © 鲁芬芳

▼厚度各异的白色转折，transitions of various thicknesses of white color © 鲁芬芳

速写・素写 Quick Sketch・Plain Writing

咏叹义大利城市建筑不得不拥抱古典主义，我们汲取其装饰逻辑：雕刻、壁炉、具量感的画框、大理石材等，许多世代视为永恒的曾经，在空间里塑造生活的灵魂，但以现代的方法解放繁华细节、多了想像的自由，留下的浮光掠影像是一场轻盈的梦境，记不得情节的琐碎呓语却难忘身处其中的情绪，怀缅文艺复兴时期的即兴速写化为店内不同端景，搭配季节更迭的服装、饰品配件和艺术品弹性改变空间的叙事强度。

To intone Italian urban architecture, one must embrace classicism. We learn from its decorative logic: sculptures, fireplaces, picture frames with sense of volumes, marble materials, etc. They are regarded as eternality by many generations, and shape the soul of life in space. We liberate the prosperous details with modern methods and have more freedom of imagination. The floating light and glimpse of the image left behind is a light-hearted dream, in which we do not remember the trivial details, but are impressed by the emotions we feel, as we turn the improvisational sketches of the Renaissance period that we reminisce into different scenes of the store, match the clothing, accessories and artwork according to each season to flexibly change the narrative intensity of the space.

▼二层空间，second floor © 鲁芬芳

▼客厅和壁炉区，living room and fire place © 鲁芬芳

▼展示区细节，display area © 鲁芬芳

▼试衣间区域，fitting room area © 鲁芬芳

走入ANEST COLLECTIVE，准备好了，在衣料的触感与空间的转折间听一段义大利的故事。

Enter ANEST COLLECTIVE, get ready to listen to an Italian story between the touch of the fabric and the transition of space.

© 鲁芬芳

▼一层平面图，1F plan © 水相设计

▼二层平面图，2F plan © 水相设计

空间设计：李智翔、廖婉君、郭瑞文、张子轩、张宇辰、黄昱诚、林亭妤 /水相设计 业主：ANEST Collective 空间性质：服饰店 座落位置：上海 室内面积：143平方米 空间格局：1F 形象中岛、展示区、橱窗 / 2F 展示区、客厅、更衣室、储藏室 设计时间：2019.08~2019.10 施工时间：2019.12~2020.05 主要材料：大理石、莱姆石、米灰色手工漆、仿水泥灰色手工漆、胡桃木实木、皮革、黄铜、镀钛金属 摄影：鲁芬芳

Designer: Waterfrom Design Client: ANEST Collective Category: Boutique Location: Shanghai Area: 143 m2 Layout: 1F Display Area, storefront / 2F Showroom, living room, changing room, storage Material：limestone, marble, hand paint, walnut solid wood, leather, brass, titanium plated metal Design Period：2019.08 ~ 2019.10 Construction Period：2019.12 ~ 2020.05 Photographer：LU,FEN-FANG Copyright: Waterfrom Design