爱慕内衣品牌北京顺义“大”厂房 / Crossboundaries

2004年爱慕公司初次接洽Crossboundaries建筑师事务所，要求设计一个总建筑面积为14000平方米的工厂，通过独立功能实现传统存储、制造和300人的住宿。 然而，随着爱慕在中国迅速发展，领导层迅速预见到升级运营的重要性，从以制造为中心的行业转变为真正的时尚品牌。为了强化品牌形象，适应日渐成熟的经济，公司要求科罗斯邦建筑师事务所增加设计一个研发办公室，一个23000平方米的分销中心以及展示其产品的空间。2014建成的53000平方米的工厂代表了爱慕公司和设计师之间成功协作，重新思考集生产、品牌构建和雇员健康于一体的中国品牌的未来。 When Aimer first approached Crossboundaries in 2004, it requested a factory compound of 14000 sqm gross floor area that could house conventional storage, manufacturing, and a 300-people dormitory by individual functions. However, as Aimer grew rapidly in China, the leadership quickly foresaw the importance to upgrade its operation shifting from a production-focused business to a genuine fashion brand. In order to reinforce its brand image and adapt to a maturing economy, Crossboundaries was asked to add a Research and Development office, a 23000sqm distribution center as well as spaces to showcase its products. The realized facility of 53000sqm in 2014 represents a successful collaboration between Aimer and the designers in rethinking the future of the Chinese brand that integrates production, brand building with the well-being of employees.

功效：一家反映企业先进实力的工厂 为了最优化利用这块场地，Crossboundaries建筑师事务所在一个厂房里汇聚了所有商业功能，形成了一个三角形独立建筑，向公众呈现了实力和权威。 遵循提升爱慕公司运营效率以提升价值链的思路，Crossboundaries建筑师事务所从细节上研究并理解爱慕公司的产品、雇员和参观者在空间内和空间间如何行进。12米高大厅的西面公共入口引导参观者去往工厂西南角和爱慕博物馆以及举办行业活动的底楼会议中心。会议中心和大厅上面是办公区域，与制造区域共享公共甲板面，以缩减行政区和制造区之间的交流时间。 这栋复合建筑不仅运用现代化方式服务于工厂传统需求，而且还基于“单位”这种共产主义体制创造了一个工厂社团。“即便爱慕正在升级运营以符合国际商业标准，它仍然基于‘单位’这种共产主义理念为工人提供住宿和部分补偿，”设计负责人蓝冰可说。600人的宿舍与工厂分开，中间的休闲区域在工作区和生活区间制造差异，从而增强工人的社团意识。 Unity: A facility that reflects the strength of a leading enterprise To optimize the site, Crossboundaries gathered all business functions under one roof, resulted in a rectangular stand-alone building that presents strength and authority to the public. Following the idea to boost Aimer’s operational efficiency in order to move up the value chain, Crossboundaries responded with detail research and understanding of how Aimers goods, employees and visitors navigate within and between the spaces. The west public entry into the 12m high lobby invites visitors to the southwest corner of shop and Aimer museum as well as the ground floor conference center that will host industry events. Above the conference center and lobby is the office area, which shares a communal deck with the manufacturing areas, cutting down in-house communication time between administration and production. Not only does the complex serve conventional factory needs in a modern way, but it also creates a factory community based on the communist system of a “danwei”. “Even though Aimer is upgrading its operation to meet international business standard, it still provides accomodation as part of compensation for the workers based on the communist idea of ‘danwei’,” said principal Binke Lenhardt. The 600-people dormitory separates from the facility with recreational areas in between, generating a distinction between work and living therefore enhancing the sense of community for workers.

民主化：照顾雇员的健康和互动 尽管向客户呈现一种强健的形象是重要的，Crossboundaries建筑师事务所预想的工厂环境还应平等照顾工人和行政雇员的健康。 通过在建筑里设置空缺，在+13米的水平面安置上公共甲板面, 穿越底楼和甲板面的双重公共空间使得空气可以沿着曲形内面外观水平和垂直循环流通。沿着内面外观使用上悬玻璃窗使照射进制造和办公区域的自然光线最大化。木料甲板层因而充当了一种桥梁作用，行政管理层和工人均可在此地闲逛和放松。”我们必须挣脱囚牢般的工作环境，从受纪律训练的工人转变为在工厂里共呼吸并参与交流的工人，”负责人董灝说。 Democratizing: Attending the well-being and interaction of employees While it is important to the client to present a strong image, Crossboundaries envisioned a factory environment that attends to the well-being of workers and administration employees equally. By cutting a void in the building and placing a communal deck set at level +13m, the doubled public space crossing ground floor and the deck allows air to better circulate horizontally and vertically along the curved inner facade. The use of top-hinged glass windows along the inner facade maximize the amount of natural light that shines into both manufacturing and office areas. This timbered deck therefore serves as a bridge to bring administration and workers to stroll and relax in the same place. “We have to break away from the imprisoning working environment, moving from disciplining workers to engaging communication and breathing within the factories,” said principal Hao Dong.

品牌内衣：通过建筑表达诱惑 因为爱慕公司想要在建筑里举办活动、展览和行业会议，Crossboundaries建筑事务所基于对爱慕公司远景的深刻理解，设计了建筑内部、风景和标示，以求建立一个反映内衣精髓的持续形象。 尽管外层外观和内面外观分别是镀锌铝和混凝土，体现了工厂的产业性质，但带有垂直突片的铝单板设计和预制混凝土面板，以一种触知性活跃这座平坦的立方体。外层外观从铝制遮覆转变为铝材和玻璃的结合，适应了产品集中区以及人力集中区所需的不同光照水平。外观的视觉效果因而反映出内衣的本质：遮蔽和透明。 大厅里的楼梯沿着细白色柱型遮幕蜿蜒而上。这些柱子设计有不同的倾斜度，以隔开工厂和博物馆。折形楼梯还充当展示内衣新系列的下降T台，模特从柱形遮幕后面走到大厅观众面前。这种探索和神秘的感觉经常与光线、走道、曲线形空缺和从透孔织品中抽象选取的圆角四边形图案相呼应。 未来 尽管顺义区有越来越多工业建筑和工厂店出现，设计爱慕工厂现代化美感和功能配置时还考虑到了未来情况：建筑用于其他用途的可能性以及将留出一些空间，以备爱慕这一全国领先品牌在国际市场上参与竞争。 Branding lingerie: Speaking about seduction through architecture Since Aimer intends to use the building for events, showcasing and industry conferences, Crossboundaries’s deep understanding of Aimer’s vision later led to designing the building’s interior, landscape and signage for a consistent image that reflects the essence of lingerie. Although the industrial nature of the facility is addressed with galvanized aluminum and concrete on the outer and inner façade respectively, the aluminum panels were designed with vertical fins and concrete panels pre-fabricated in order to enliven a flattened cube with tactility. The outer facade transitions from aluminum coverage to a combination of aluminum and glass, accommodating the different levels of lighting required in products-centered areas and human-centered areas. The visual effect of the facade therefore reflects the nature of lingerie: coverage and transparency. The staircase in the lobby winds around a veil of slender white columns set at various inclinations screening off the shop and museum. It also doubles as an descending catwalk for models to reveal a new collection of lingerie, emerging from behind the veil to the audience in the lobby. This sense of exploration and mystery is frequently echoed in lighting, walkways and voids with curves and rounded quadrilateral patterns, which were extracted abstractly from selections of lace. Future While the county of Shunyi sees a growing number of industrial architectures and outlets, the Aimer Factory’s contemporary aesthetic and functions allocation are designed with the future in mind: the possibility to use the architecture for other purposes and setting Aimer apart as a leading national brand that will be ready to compete internationally.