Universal Works 服饰店，伦敦 / Studio MUTT

“服装设计的方法如何能应用到建筑设计中？”，12月一个寒冷的日子，在一家伦敦酒店的吧台，有人提出了这样一个问题，MUTT和Universal Works创造性的合作关系就源于此时。作为Universal Works的顾客，我们已很了解并欣赏这个品牌——它的设计，它的工艺，还有品牌背后的工作者。在与David, Stephanie还有Universal Works的其他工作人员交流过后，我们基于他们在新店设计中运用的三个设计理念，创造出了一种新设计方式。Berwick街26号是我们建立友谊和合作关系之后的第一项成果。10月位于Coal Drops Yard的另一个旗舰店也会开放。

MUTT’s creative relationship with Universal Works began in the bar of a London hotel, on a cold December day, with a question: how does an approach to clothing translate into an approach to architecture? As customers of theirs we already had an understanding and appreciation of the brand – its context, the craft at the heart of it, and the people behind it. Through close discussion with David, Stephanie, and the wider Universal Works family we developed an architectural approach based on these three facets of their ethos to be used in the design of their new stores. 26 Berwick Street is the first fruit of this collaboration and new found friendship. A flagship store at Coal Drops Yard will follow it in October.

▼沿街立面，facade

Berwick街26号与其它店面一样同属一个公司，但有细微的不同，有着自身的魅力。这种独特魅力源于店面自身的形式、氛围和地理位置，根据周围环境进行了不同的设计，让人进入建筑能马上有十分熟悉却又特别的感觉。

26 Berwick Street is of the same family as the other stores, but with a slightly different, very unique, flavour and character. This is determined by the form, feel and location of the unit itself, reacting to its environment and constraints to produce an innovative architectural response which is at once extremely familiar and perfectly peculiar.

▼室内运用了大量的镜面，由定制的木结构架起，建立视觉错觉和空间的新视角，large expanses of mirror have been used, mounted to bespoke timber framework, to create illusions of volume and new sightlines through the space

通过深入了解Universal Works的品牌特点，我们在设计中大胆运用天然材料，给人出乎意料的惊喜。之前的房客将原有的混凝土结构尘封了许久，现在我们粉刷上充满生气的绿色，让它重获新生，用以纪念对Universal Works设计影响深远的工厂。室内运用了大量的镜面，由定制的木结构架起，建立视觉错觉和空间的新视角。原来的预制砌块墙现在加工成了绿色的沃刻板，用作试衣间的墙和门。

Unexpected and surprising moments have been created through architectural insertions with a bold and honest material palette, and by closely working with the idiosyncrasies of the unit. The existing concrete structure, long since concealed and covered by previous tenants, has been brought back to life in a vibrant green, reminiscent of the mills and factories which have been such an influence on Universal Works collections. Large expanses of mirror have been used, mounted to bespoke timber framework, to create illusions of volume and new sightlines through the space. An original blockwork wall has been resurrected in green machined Valchromat as the changing room walls and doors.

▼定制的木结构衣架，bespoke timber framework

▼原来的预制砌块墙现在加工成了绿色的沃刻板，用作试衣间的墙和门，an original blockwork wall has been resurrected in green machined Valchromat as the changing room walls and doors

▼细节设计，detail design

关于MUTT|About MUTT

MUTT是一个建筑设计工作室，由Graham Burn, James Crawford和Alexander Turner创立，在伦敦和利物浦都有办公区。工作室的根本目标是设计有独特魅力的项目，项目是唯一的、特别的，令人心情愉悦的。我们愿意设计各种尺度的东西，小到茶杯，大到高楼，希望我们的生活更加美好。我们的每个设计本身就是一个故事，为客户提供定制的私人服务，将设计与场地、环境和城市特色结合。

MUTT is an architecture studio founded by Graham Burn, James Crawford and Alexander Turner, with roots in London and Liverpool. The underlying mission of the studio is to create characterful projects which are unique, specific and joyful. We work at all scales, from a teacup to a tower, to make everyday life better. Our projects develop a narrative to provide a bespoke and personal service and to produce responses which are specific to place, context and vernacular.

▼设计意向图，conceptual design

我们通过各种方式完善设计，包括使用媒体、图纸、影片、模型和研究设计原型，并通过使用出乎意料的材料，实现这些构想。我们希望可以运用最普遍的东西创造最特别的设计。

We develop our projects through a range of media, from drawings to films, models to prototypes, and this approach is translated in to built form through the use of unexpected and re-imagined materials. Our work seeks to use the extremely familiar to create the perfectly peculiar.

▼平面图，plan

▼剖面图，section

关于Universal Works|About Universal Works

Universal Works是男性时装品牌。公司的第一套设计完成于2009年David Keyte（UW的合作创始人、主管、设计师）的厨房中，设计基于合身舒适的原则，保证实在、简约的风格，绝不过度设计。

Universal Works produces contemporary menswear. The company’s first collection launched in 2009 with David Keyte (UW co-founder, director, designer) working from his kitchen table with an aim to make real, honest clothing based on fit and good design, though never over designed.

▼分解轴测图，exploded drawing

Universal Works受到David理念成型期周围环境影响。那时David生活于七十年代的中部地区，成长于喜穿正装的工薪阶层家庭，他的父亲和叔叔们都会在工作时着正装，周末也是一样。接着，他的工作是一名签约作家学徒，经历了八十年代运动和音乐文化的发展时期，最后在时尚圈工作了三十年。从Paul Smith到Maharishi，他一边工作一边从业内最优秀的设计师那里学到了很多知识。

Universal Works was inspired by David’s formative years growing up in a provincial midlands town in the seventies, part of a working class family that loved to dress well; seeing his Dad and Uncles in their work-wear and also when dressing for the weekend. Next, working as a sign-writers apprentice, whilst experiencing the development of eighties sporting and music subcultures. And finally a thirty-year span in the fashion industry. From Paul Smith to Maharishi he gained an education from and worked alongside some of the best in the industry.

▼木构架设计图，timber framing drawing

Project : Universal Works x 26 Berwick Street
 Client : Universal Works
 Architect: Studio MUTT
 Address : 26 Berwick Street, London W1F 8RG Completion: August 2018
 Gross Internal area: 75 m2 Contract type: Bespoke (5 week duration) Construction cost: £45,000 (£600/m2) Main contractor: 19 Software: Vectorworks