非洲考察2|坦桑酒店探访

塞伦盖蒂草原 ©Kooo

在为期一周的非洲塞伦盖蒂考察期间，我们入住的酒店成为此行的重要收获。小大在不同国家和地区设计酒店，而这次坦桑尼亚的项目迈出了关键一步。通过调研当地现有酒店，我们重新思考如何打造适合该地区的酒店设计。

During our week-long expedition in the Serengeti, the lodges we stayed in played a central role in our research. As Kooo Architects continues to design hotels in various countries and regions, this project in Tanzania marks a pivotal step forw

ard. By sur

veying existing hospitality offerings in the area, we reexamined how to craft a hotel design suited to this unique context.

01

我们入住的第一家酒店是

Turaco Ngorongoro Valley

，位于坦桑尼亚恩戈罗火山口附近。傍晚抵达时，酒店笼罩在薄雾中，海拔两千多米的山谷气候微凉，植被茂密。

Our first stop was

Turaco Ngorongoro Valley

, located near the Ngorongoro Crater in Tanzania. Upon our evening arrival, the hotel was shrouded in mist. At an elevation of over 2,000 meters, the valley's climate was cool and lush with vegetation.

山谷中的酒店 ©Kooo

客房呈圆形独栋，错落分布在山坡上，由当地的石材铺地连接每栋客房。室内空间干净简单，空间开敞，实木家具与当地软装搭配，简约舒适。

Guestrooms were standalone circular units scattered across the hillside, each connected by local stone pathways. The interiors were clean and simple, with open layouts, solid wood furniture, and local soft furnishings that created a minimalist yet cozy atmosphere.

客房内部©Kooo

谷底是餐厅和酒吧，采光稍弱，半户外休息区选用当地传统家具，绿植环绕，氛围闲适自然。

At the valley floor were the restaurant and bar, where natural lighting was somewhat limited. The semi-outdoor lounge areas were furnished with traditional Tanzanian pieces and surrounded by greenery, creating a relaxed and natural atmosphere.

酒吧被植物环绕©Kooo

SPA和户外酒吧休息区环绕泳池，池边铺地采用当地石材，但勾缝工艺稍显粗糙。泳池酒吧的木结构屋顶铺设芦苇，颇具特色，但这类材料易受雨季影响，需旱季采购。

The spa and outdoor bar were arranged around a central pool, with local stone paving and a reed-thatched timber roof that added regional character, though the grouting was somewhat rough and the materials weather-sensitive. 

泳池 ©Kooo

酒吧的材质 ©Kooo

SPA的立面采用木条装饰，外观略显粗犷，但步入内部后，木条间隙透出的光影静谧而富有层次，呈现安静的气氛。

The spa’s timber-slat façade appeared rugged from the outside, but the filtered light inside created a calm and layered atmosphere.

SPA 空间©Kooo

整体而言，酒店建筑风格质朴，使用了当地的建材，但细节处理较为粗糙，略微影响体验。

Overall, the architectural style of the lodge was simple and grounded, utilizing local materials. However, the relatively rough detailing affected the overall quality of the experience to a certain degree.

02

从恩戈罗火山口继续前往塞伦盖蒂，第二晚我们入住了位于坦桑尼亚 塞伦盖蒂国家公园中心地区的

Seronera Wildlife Lodge

。该酒店依靠花岗岩巨石而建，融合自然石材和建筑独特的岩石

旅馆

风格。临近酒店的途中，看到了很多巨大岩石，据说此处是狮子王的

‘

荣耀石

’

的取景地之一。

Continuing from the Ngorongoro Crater, our second night was spent at Seronera Wildlife Lodge, located in the central area of Serengeti National Park. The hotel was built into massive granite outcrops, integrating natural rock formations with architectural elements to form a distinctive rock-lodge style. Along the approach to the lodge, we passed enormous boulders—reportedly one of the filming locations for the “Pride Rock” in The Lion King.

酒店大堂 ©Kooo

到达酒店后，大堂的天花高度只有

2200mm

，尺度上比较亲人。但当我们看向酒店内部的庭院，巨大的石头与大堂带来的空间反差尤为震撼。

Upon arrival, the lobby ceiling was just 2.2 meters high, which created an intimate spatial scale. But looking into the central courtyard, the contrast between the enclosed lobby and the towering rock formations was striking.

巨石上的酒店 ©Kooo

餐厅和酒吧直接嵌入岩石之中，建筑结构顺应岩石的自然形

态。沿着巨石间的连廊向上，穿过天然岩缝，终于来到岩石顶端的建筑。曲折迂回，层层递进的动线的设计，驱使客人探索。

Following the corridors between the boulders and passing through natural rock crevices, one finally reaches the structure at the top. The winding and layered circulation design encourages exploration.

大跨度的室内空间 ©Kooo

酒吧和餐厅以采大跨度的木结构为主。木结构的屋顶下，巨石堆中巧妙地布置着家具。 四周大面积的木质开窗，削弱内外边界，充足的自然光线，开敞的视野。巨石的顶端设置观景台，可360度俯瞰塞伦盖蒂草原，是观赏日出日落、野生动物活动的绝佳地点。

The restaurant and bar were embedded directly into the rock, with the architectural structure following the natural contours. Timber was the main structural material, spanning wide roof sections. Furniture was placed cleverly among the rocks. Large wooden windows opened up the space, allowing ample daylight and expansive views. A viewing deck was installed atop one of the rocks, offering a 360-degree panorama of the Serengeti—ideal for watching sunrise, sunset, and wildlife.

观景平台 ©Kooo

石头中的泳池 ©Kooo

在巨石凹陷处建造的泳池，与周围环境浑然一体，让客人置身于巨石之中。

The swimming pool was built into a natural depression in the rock, blending seamlessly with its surroundings and allowing guests to feel immersed within the landscape.

连接客房的木质围廊 ©Kooo

客房围绕中央庭院分布，通过木质走廊相连，部分房间的窗户直接朝向草原，野生动物如羚羊、狒狒可能靠近。客房内部全木结构带来的是隔音，保温上的牺牲，夜间可听到鬣狗、河马等动物的声音至今仍让我印象深刻。

Guestrooms were arranged around the central courtyard and connected by timber corridors. Some windows faced the savanna directly, where antelope and baboons could occasionally be seen nearby. The all-wood construction meant some compromise in terms of sound insulation and thermal performance—at night, the calls of hyenas and hippos left a lasting impression.

钥匙及把手细节 ©Kooo

在细节的处理上：酒店采用不同动物纹样的钥匙，黄铜的把手，门窗材质处理仍然非常精致用心，深入人心的记忆点。

Details such as the room keys, door handles, and material finishes remained carefully crafted and thoughtfully executed.

客房围绕着巨石 ©Kooo

Seronera Wildlife Lodge

是塞伦盖蒂大草原上建成的最早的酒店之一，与巨石融合建造，减少破坏的理念至今仍显前卫。同时保留原有岩石地貌带来丰富的体验和趣味，满足了游客对非洲荒野风情的想象，又提供了实用的观景与社交功能。

As one of the earliest hotels built on the Serengeti plains, Seronera Wildlife Lodge remains forward-thinking in its concept of integrating architecture with the natural rock formations to minimize disruption. The preserved terrain enriches the spatial experience, fulfilling travelers’ expectations of the African wilderness while providing functional spaces for viewing and gathering.

03

在塞伦盖蒂国家公园的第三天，我们来到了位于公园北部的

Lobo Wildlife Lodge

。作为与

 Seronera Wildlife Lodge 

同系列的酒店，

Lobo 

延续了

"

巨石旅馆

"

的独特风格，将建筑与自然完美融合，带来同样震撼的荒野体验。我们初抵达时统一的感受是到达了一个易守难攻的山寨。

On the third day in the Serengeti, we arrived at 

Lobo Wildlife Lodge

, located in the northern part of the park. As a sister hotel to Seronera, Lobo continued the same distinctive “rock lodge” style, blending architecture seamlessly with the landscape to deliver a similarly powerful wilderness experience. Our initial impression was of having arrived at a naturally fortified outpost.

塞伦盖蒂草原 ©Kooo

酒店的建筑和家具都根据岩石的天然形态巧妙布置。走廊蜿蜒于巨石之间，客房错落分布。

Hotel staff welcomed us with traditional dance. The energetic drumming and powerful movements immediately lifted our spirits after a long day. Coincidentally, it was a companion’s birthday, and the hotel prepared a special African-style celebration, allowing us to truly feel the passion and vitality of the land.

巨石中的餐厅 ©Kooo

欢迎的仪式 ©Kooo

抵达时，酒店员工以传统舞蹈欢迎我们，欢快的鼓点和充满力量的舞姿瞬间洗去了一天的疲惫。更巧的是，同行伙伴当天生日，酒店特别准备了非洲式的生日祝福仪式让我们深深感受到非洲大地的热情与生命力。

Hotel staff welcomed us with traditional dance. The energetic drumming and powerful movements immediately lifted our spirits after a long day. Coincidentally, it was a companion’s birthday, and the hotel prepared a special African-style celebration, allowing us to truly feel the passion and vitality of the land.

泳池 ©Kooo

泳池嵌入岩石，岩石上有一个酒吧，能够远眺草原的景观。

The swimming pool was embedded into the rock, with a bar located above it, offering views of the savanna in the distance.

巨石上的酒吧 ©Kooo

巨石中的连廊 ©Kooo

连续入住

 Seronera 

和

Lobo 

两家

Wildlife Lodge

，最深的体会是它们对建筑与场地结合的极致追求。不刻意营造奢华，而是让原始景观成为主角。

After staying at both Seronera and Lobo, what stood out most was their pursuit of seamless integration between architecture and site. Rather than deliberately crafting luxury, the raw landscape was allowed to take center stage.

04

在前往公园北部的考察途中，我们中午造访了塞伦盖蒂国家公园内的顶级野奢酒店

——Four Seasons Safari Lodge Serengeti

。

During our journey to the northern part of the park, we visited the 

Four Seasons Safari Lodge Serengeti

 at midday—one of the most luxurious properties within Serengeti National Park.

酒店的中庭 ©Kooo

酒店建筑完美融合非洲传统与现代设计：采用非洲传统茅草屋顶搭配现代钢木结构，主入口设计低调隐蔽，

10

米高中庭引入自然光线，巧妙组织公共区域动线。

The hotel architecture masterfully combined traditional African elements with modern design. Thatch roofs were paired with contemporary steel-and-timber structures. The main entrance was understated and discreet, leading into a 10-meter-high atrium that drew in natural light and clearly organized circulation within the public areas.

软装和家具©Kooo

中庭采用镂空木雕屏风围合，形成斑驳的光影效果休息区艺术品与家具搭配相得益彰。

The central courtyard was enclosed by carved timber screens, creating a dappled light effect. Carefully curated art and furnishings enriched the atmosphere in the lounge.

泳池 ©Kooo

泳池与景观结合，面向辽阔草原，下方设有生态水池吸引动物饮水，住客可在酒店内直接观赏大象、狮子等野生动物。泳池周边通过高差设计形成多层次的休息和就餐区域。

The swimming pool faced the vast savanna and was accompanied by an ecological waterhole below that attracted wildlife. Guests could view elephants, lions, and other animals without leaving the lodge. The poolside space was tiered through elevation changes to create multiple levels for dining and relaxation.

木质连廊©Kooo

客房内部©Kooo

客房设计同样独具匠心：通过木质廊道连接，实现人车分流，外立面采用自然堆砌的当地石材，所有客房均面向草原，视野开阔无遮挡，室内家具品质优良，功能分区合理。宽敞阳台让住客与草原、野生动物更亲近。

Guestrooms were equally well designed: connected via timber walkways that separated pedestrian and vehicle routes, and clad in naturally stacked local stone. All rooms faced the open savanna, with unbroken views. Interiors featured high-quality furnishings and functional spatial layouts. Spacious balconies brought guests closer to the landscape and wildlife.

采用当地石材的浴室 ©Koo

o

酒店的连廊 ©Kooo

建筑材料尽可能使用本地木材和石材，减少对环境的干扰。酒店无围栏设计，野生动物可自由穿行，体现

“

野奢

”

与生态共存的理念。虽未入住，但四季酒店卓越的服务品质和深厚的设计功底给我们留下了深刻印象。

Local wood and stone were used wherever possible to reduce environmental impact. The unfenced layout allowed animals to move freely, embodying the concept of "wild luxury" coexisting with nature. Though we did not stay overnight, the Four Seasons’ design excellence and service philosophy left a strong impression.

05

抵达营地 ©Kooo

在塞伦盖蒂草原的最后一天，我们入住了移动式营地

Nyuki Migration Camp

。这座独特的营地每年随着动物大迁徙而移动两次：

12

月至

3

月驻扎在恩戈罗恩戈罗保护区的

Ndutu

地区，靠近

Ndutu

湖和

Masek

湖，方便观赏角马产犊季；

7

月至

10

月则迁至塞伦盖蒂北部，临近著名的马拉河

"

天国之渡

"

观景点。

On our final day in the Serengeti, we stayed at the mobile Nyuki Migration Camp. This unique camp relocates twice a year to follow the great migration: from December to March, it is stationed in the Ndutu area of the Ngorongoro Conservation Area, near Lakes Ndutu and Masek for the calving season; from July to October, it moves to northern Serengeti, near the iconic Mara River crossing.

可拆卸的帐篷 ©Kooo

为了适应这种迁徙模式，营地所有设施都采用预制可拆解设计。与普通酒店不同，帐篷营地更贴近自然环境，让客人能够近距离接触野生动物。我们可以在户外平台上欣赏到了壮丽的草原夕阳。

To support this mobility, all facilities were prefabricated and demountable. Unlike traditional hotels, the tented format brought guests closer to the natural environment and wildlife. We watched the breathtaking savanna sunset from the outdoor platform.

帐篷露台 ©Kooo

虽然是帐篷营地，但内部设施毫不含糊：公共区域摆放着大型沙发，房间内配有精致的竹编灯具和装饰品，在保持野外体验的同时，确保了舒适的居住品质。

Despite being a tented camp, the interior quality was not compromised. The public lounge featured large sofas, while guestrooms included bamboo-crafted lighting and decorative elements, ensuring comfort while retaining the feeling of a wilderness stay.

客房内部 ©Kooo

营地的能源和污水处理系统也别具特色：电力完全依赖太阳能，得益于草原充足的日照；水源主要来自雨季雨水收集，并辅以地下水补充，经过净化过滤后使用（不过我们入住时发现净化系统效果欠佳，自来水明显发黄）；

The energy and water systems were also thoughtfully designed. Electricity was fully solar-powered, taking advantage of the abundant sunlight

 on the plains. 

Water came primarily from rainwater harvesting, supplemented by groundwater and purified before use—though during our stay, the purification system underperformed, and tap water appeared visibly yellow.

预制构件 ©Kooo

排污井 ©Kooo

排水系统采用灰水直排，污水则排入污水井，通过自然分解与人工处理相结合的方式解决，部分营地还需要用排污车外运处理。

Greywater was discharged directly, while blackwater was collected into septic tanks and treated through a combination of natural decomposition and manual intervention. In some camps, waste had to be removed by external sewage trucks.

移动帐篷©Kooo

Nyikani Migration Camp的设计核心是移动性、生态兼容性与游客舒适度的结合，通过太阳能供电、本地化材料和无围栏布局，实现与塞伦盖蒂环境的和谐共存。

At its core, Nyuki Migration Camp is designed around mobility, ecological compatibility, and guest comfort. Through solar energy, local materials, and an unfenced layout, the camp achieves harmonious coexistence with the Serengeti ecosystem.

结语

这次坦桑尼亚的酒店考察，让我们在短时间内深度体验了从森林独栋小屋、巨石上木构酒店再到随季节搬迁的帐篷等不同形态的特色住宿。每一处都完美诠释了"与自然共生"的设计哲学，让我们对草原居住空间有了全新的认知与启发。

This hotel research trip in Tanzania allowed us to deeply experience, within a short period, a variety of distinctive accommodations—from forest standalone villas and timber-framed lodges perched on boulders to seasonal mobile tent camps. Each one perfectly embodies the design philosophy of "symbiosis with nature," giving us a fresh perspective and inspiration for living spaces in the savanna.

尤其值得注意的是，这些酒店将建筑完美融入原始地貌，绝大多数客人正是为这份独特的野性魅力而来。这启示我们：未来的设计必须深度挖掘场地特质，把建筑融入到场地中,与环境和动物共生。如何通过设计强化这种"在地体验"，这将是我们接下来重点突破的方向。

It is particularly noteworthy that these hotels seamlessly integrate architecture into the pristine landscape, and it is precisely this unique wild charm that attracts the vast majority of guests. This inspires us: future designs must deeply explore the characteristics of the site, embedding buildings into the environment to coexist harmoniously with nature and wildlife. How to enhance this "sense of place" through design will be a key focus of our future breakthroughs.

小大建築設計事務所地址：

东京：

〒52－0035

 東京都目黒区自由が丘3丁目14-8

上海：长宁区定西路1207号6F

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