失衡针丨中国上海丨好似飞行

时装秀场在建筑学角度，是一种时间与空间密集相互感知的四维设计。好似飞行建筑事务所第三次为YINGPEI STUDIO设计的秀场，进化为一场经过计算的极简短剧，分为五段式。

From the perspective of architecture, fashion show is a four-dimensional design that time and space interact closely. The third time House Fiction designed fashion show for YINGPEI STUDIO, has evolved into a minimal drama with physical calculation. It was divided into five stages.

▼《失衡针》正片 video-The Unbalanced Needle ©好似飞行

底座是个充满机关的大黑匣子，8米长的指针支在其1/4处，初始状态向入场观众展现通过电机维持着的平衡假象。

The base of the installation was a big black box with mechanism. The 8-meter-long needle was supported by the box at a quarter of its length . The initial state showed the audience the illusion of balance maintained by the motor.

▼走秀现场 catwalking ©好似飞行

悬挑6米的细长直线杆，需避免过大悬挑杆端的重力变形。为确定细长悬挑杆的变形状态，采用SAP2000有限元计算分析软件对截面为P60x1.5的钢管变形予以分析，结果表明钢管因材质密度大导致悬挑杆端的挠度变形过于明显，而不满足外观设计要求。为实现长悬挑细长杆较理想的直线外观，改为采用弹性模量与钢材接近，但密度仅是钢材的1/5，强度是钢材10倍的航空器材用碳纤维管，经计算同截面的碳纤维管悬挑端的挠度变形明显小于钢管，其自重变形后的外观可以接受。单根8米长的杆造价超支，故采用4根2米长的现成品用套管连接。装置体量结合所处空间尺寸、模特高度、观众视线和其自身的部件对比达到最优表现。

▼长杆变形分析图示 rod deformation analysis ©好似飞行

It was necessary to avoid deformation at the end of the 6-meter cantiliver rod (referred to needle).  In order to determine the deformation degree of the rod, the SAP2000 software was used to analyse the deformation of the steel rod with a cross-section of P60x1.5. The results showed that its high density caused thedeformation of the deflection at the end of the rod to be too obvious (see the first row of the diagram below),which did not meet the design requirements. In order to achieve the ideal linear appearance of the rod, carbon fiber rod was chosen because it used for aviation equipment with elastic modulus close to steel but its density is only 1/5 of steel, and the strength is 10 times that of it. After calculation, the deformation of the deflection at the end of the carbon fiber rod with the same cross-section is significantly smaller than that of the steel one (see the second row of the diagram below), which was acceptable on the appearance. The cost of an single 8-meter-long rod exceeded the budget, so four 2-meter-long ready-made rods connected by jacket tube became the solution. The volume of the installation achieved the best performance based on the space size, the height of the model, the line of sight of the audience and the comparison of its own components.

▼装置初始状态 initial state ©好似飞行

全场暗下来，走秀音乐起，灯光随着第一个模特出场的脚步渐亮，至形成一个C型秀道。指针被模特开启旋转，或说引领着模特，随分秒流逝在圆形空间中环绕。 一线带两点的运动便撑起直径28米的油罐空间。圆中心的黑匣子隐匿于黑暗中，光线随针头流动。人们在十多分钟内将对这平淡的重复转动习以为常。

▼装置比例推敲过程图 the  optimization of the installation scale ©好似飞行

When the interior went dark and the music was turned on, the lights gradually brightened with the appearance of the first model until the runway was illuminated into a C shape. The needle rotated and ledmodels in the circular space as time went by. The movement of one line with two points happened in this 28-meter-diameter circular space. The big black box in the center of the circular space was hidden in the dark. Light was flowing with needle head. The audience became numb to this repetitive rotation in more than ten minutes.

▼走秀过程 catwalking ©好似飞行

为避免长杆在转动中摇晃，当用直径100mm钢管测试时，在管腔内还可以用配重调节，而改换更细的碳纤维管后则需在黑匣子的厚度中设置多一个气缸支点进行稳固。

In order to prevent the long rod from shaking during rotation, when testing with a 100mm-diameter steel tube,  it is possible to adjust  with a counterweight in cavity. After changing to a thinner carbon fiber rod, it was necessary to set an extra cylinder pivot in the thickness of the big black box for stability.

▼指针引领模特 the needle rotating with the models ©好似飞行

▼从中心黑匣子看向模特 view of the models from the big black box in the center ©好似飞行

当最后一个模特走回时，全场寂静，装置的转动停止。指针长端独自由场地中心的支点缓缓升起，齿轮声咯吱咯吱，升至两米高时用时5-6秒并停顿2-3秒。杠杆平衡条件为F1·L1=F2·L2，当支点两端动力臂（L）长短差异明显，表象上无动力（F）干预时，指针却向短端倾斜，这得寸进尺的假象使观众此时或麻木未觉，或疑惑不解。

When the last model walked back, the music was turned off and the rotation of the needle stopped. The long end of the rod rose slowly from the center of the circular space with the sound of gears turning. The end of rod took 5 to 6 seconds to rose up to 2 meters height and then stayed for 2-3 seconds. The condition of leverage balance is F1·L1=F2·L2. When the lengths of the power arms (L) at the two ends of the pivot was obviously different and it seemed that there was no power (F) intervention, the rodtilted to the short end. This illusion made everyone puzzled at this time.

▼机械原理图示爆炸图 mechanical principle exploded axon ©好似飞行

由气压双缸升降阀负责将长杆的一端顶起，配合链条轴承组牵制，防止接下来即将发生的自由落体连带的端头多次回弹，使一声敲击尽量干脆利落。

The pneumatic double-cylinder lifting valve was responsible for pushing up one end of the rod and cooperating with the chain bearing set to prevent from what would happen next that the end with the free fall motion rebounded many times, so that the knock motion could be  as nice and clean as possible.

在观众不经意间，电机断电，指针在杠杆原理下用时0.36秒左右自由落体，与下方金属空心圆盘的碰撞声直击人心，物理真相打破人工假象，”火花”随即被击荡喷出，配合敲击回音在空中飘动。本预判撞击声在正圆形墙体的空间中会多次反射，产生空灵的回音。

When the scene seems frozen, suddenly the motor was powered off. Following the principle of leverage,  the needle took 0.36 second to complete the free fall motion. The shocking sound of the hitting made by the metal hollow disk hits audiences’ awareness . Physical truth broke artificial illusion,  the “sparks” were ejected and floating in the air with knocking echoes. The knocking sound was expected to reflect multiple times in the circular space and produced strong echoes.

▼指针反向倾斜 the needle tilting in the opposite direction ©好似飞行

▼指针自由落体 the needle falling down ©好似飞行

但在声效模拟图中，粒子在重合处发生聚焦，可能会产生与预期不同的刺耳异响，因此粒子明显重合的圆心位置无观众座位，其它可能出现异响的位置空出作为通道。当空间内容纳200多个观众及座椅、和顶上已有的吸声布，会降低混响时间，缩短拖尾音。为达到足够震的声响，圆盘内放置一个扩音器，让与其连接的上空音响辅助在整个空间发声。

However In the sound effect simulation map, where particles overlapped would produce unexpected harsh noises. This is why there was no seat in the center of the circle where the particles obviously overlapped，and other positions might cause noises were left for passages.  When there were more than 200 audience and their seats, and existing sound-absorbing clothes hung under the ceiling, the reverberation time would be reduced, and the trailing sound would be shortened. In order to achieve shocking echoes, an amplifier was placed in the disc. its connected loudspeaker on lamps frameworkassisting in spreading the sound in the whole space.

▼声学模拟动图 acoustic simulation ©好似飞行

溅起的“火花”是为辅助强调假象的打破。测试选定可在空中停留片刻、可反射灯光并不易被人吸入的香槟色金箔纸屑。圆盘下的气瓶连接藏在后台的气泵，使气量满足当日多次测试彩排和两场连续时装秀。

Splashing “sparks” helped emphasize the fact that the illusion was broken.  After testing, the champagne gold foil that could stay in the air for a while, reflected the light and was not easy to be inhaled was selected. The gas cylinder under the disk was connected to the gas pump hidden in the backstage, which guaranteed gas would be enough for multiple tests, rehearsals and two consecutive fashion shows after on the same day.

Finale音乐骤起，模特集体穿过被溅起的火花为走秀结尾。失衡针此时的状态坦白着事物本来应有的状态，灯光从圆环秀道向圆心聚焦到暗藏机关的黑匣子，由它为这幕短剧谢幕。

The Finale music suddenly sounded. All the models passed through the splashed sparks, as the ending of the show. The state of the unbalanced needle at this time revealed the original state of unbalanced truth. The light focused from the circular runway to the center of the space. The big black box which hid mechanism took the curtain, led this short play to the end.

▼结尾，模特集体穿过被溅起的火花 all the models passed through the splashed sparks ©好似飞行

▼结尾时的火花 sparks at the end ©好似飞行

《失衡针》希望表达的态度，是对司空见惯的日常现象持有警惕，并对真相和其所需要保持的假象拥有清醒的觉知。

What “The Unbalanced Needle”  is trying to delivery is that being vigilant about daily phenomena and holding a clear awareness of the truth and the illusions that need to be maintained.

▼设备组装照片 equipment assembly ©好似飞行

在前两次合作中，建筑师会根据当季服装的灵感参照和具体衣物进行设计。而这次，时装设计师与建筑师在前期共同商定一个主题后便分开创作，由合作经验累积的默契和信任使异地沟通过程简约有效。相比通常具象场景化的布置，此次的概念碰撞的呈现让双方都获得内核进步，这或是不同行业设计师之间合作模式一种成功实验。

In the previous two collaborations, the architects designed installation based on fashion collection of theseason. And this time, the fashion designer and the architects worked separately after agreeing on a theme in the early stage. The tacit understanding and trust built by the cooperation experience made the communication process in different places very effective. Rather than specific scenery as usually a fashion show does, the conceptual crash leads to qualitative improvement for both the architects and fashion designers. This may be a successful experiment in the cooperation model between designers in different industries.

▼手工模型 model photos ©好似飞行

▼装置尺寸图 installation size ©好似飞行