皮蒂 89 届男装盛宴，韩国设计师朱恩-J 的未来主义探索

The 89th edition of Florence's Pitti Uomo fair saw an eclectic and exciting mix of industry events and trade roadshows including Marco de Vincenzo's illuminated A/W 2016 presentation

无论是下雨、暴风雪还是冬日的阳光，半年一度的皮蒂·乌莫交易会总是一个好坏参半的包包：夹在伦敦收藏品之间的全球时尚交汇点：男人和米兰在男装舞台上展示所有的牛仔和花花公子。现在，皮蒂在其第89版中巩固了其作为世界一流贸易的基础，并在国际设计师的轮流名单的帮助下，每季度推出一项吸引人的行业活动计划。

随着海外越来越多地关注首尔的创意景观，韩国设计师朱恩-J(Juun.J)作为皮蒂·乌莫(Pitti Uomo)的客座设计师似乎是个不错的选择。他将自己的2016年A/W秀从巴黎的东京万国宫(Palais de东京)搬到了斯泰奥内·利奥波达(Stazione Leopolda)-一个中立、地堡式的空间-

植物皮革记事本邀请压花镀金关键字抢先设计师的兴高采烈的佛罗伦萨手工皮革，这表现在夸张的摩托十字形状与长线裁剪。这两人都是刺绣的，或者是用一股狂暴的狂躁来修补的。“无视角”、“无范例”、“无体裁”和“无形”是胡恩剧名中拼凑而成的一些形容词，补充了他在单调的迭代中探索的单色、未来派的制服，往往是从粗大的肩膀上掉下来的，或以剪开的边线和长长的针织围巾的漩涡结尾。

在一部激动人心的结局中，朱恩-J呼吁68岁的日本画家索拉亚马(Hajime Sorayama)用他的未来主义者的骨架和知更鸟情色来修饰厚厚的一堆反剪毛外套-每一个男孩一件-这为设计师的文化和服装的熔炉提供了一个引人注目的图形符号。

皮蒂的邀请给Juun.J的作品带来了新的曙光，女装嘉宾Marco De Vincenzo向宾客招手，在黑暗中，他接替了TeaTro尼科里尼，他取名为“LusieTM”的半定制皮革装。De Vincenzo制作了21件独特的服装，在舞台上摆放着丑角条纹绒面革披肩和整个舞台上的玻璃彩衣。庆祝他的签名奥姆布雷颜色效果，一个光学幻觉的梯度金属剧场座位由Patrizio Travagli招呼客人到房间的中心，在那里坐在围栏会发现他们的反射无限倍乘以着色玻璃板任一侧。

在阿迪达斯原始人展上，戏剧也是当天的头等大事，该会首次与日本街头品牌“白山”合作。在这里，服装面临着严重的默默无闻的时刻，因为一个复杂的滑轮系统降低了荧光三角形的蓝色光束周围的每一个模型。其效果是一个未来派的身体扫描，匹配设计师YosukeAizawa的高山雪佛龙，加上三条标志，是印有精确的磁带和粘合的轨道齿轮。这些密集的层次分明的收藏确保了艾泽的科技美式精神完好无损，专注于蓬松的羽绒服、迷离的吊装组合和军事造型-所有这些元素都直接反映了2016年这位标新立异的皮蒂绅士的运动风格演变。

De Vincenzo's 'In-Lusionem' showcase took took place in Florence's Teatro Niccolini

Guests were plunged into atmospheric darkness, out of which, ghostly, metallic figures emerged showcasing 21 new outfits, specially created for the event

Vincenzo's signature ombré colour scheme was amplified and given even more gravitas by the floor-to-ceiling mirrored panels, which also reflected the guest's images as they were ushered to their seats

The tinted glass mirrors gave the procession a futuristic aura

Korean designer Juun.j was another highlight of this year's Pitti extravaganza

Juun.j relocated his usual Palais de Tokyo Paris show to the bunker-like space of Le Stazione Leopolda

From the start, a 'privation' theme was firmly established for Juun.j's Florence show, aptly entitled '-less'

The designer's 'robot-erotica' uniforms would not have been out of place in a dystopian-futurist flick

Words like 'viewless’, ‘paradigmless’, ‘genreless’, and ‘formless’ were embroidered on the show invitations

Over-the-top theatrics continued at Adidas Orginals' dramatic Pitti show

Glowing blue triangles were lowered over models – serving to deliberately obscure, rather than illuminate, the looks

This show saw Adidas' first collaboration with Japanese streetwear label White Mountaineering

Each outfit was emblazoned in some way with the striking three-peak logo, speaking to the popular futuristic-sportif trend

keywords:Adidas, Marco de Vincenzo

关键词：阿迪达斯、马尔科·德文琴佐