莫里翁山脊上的极致露营 | 卢卡·帕斯夸雷蒂营地

© Adele Muscolino

阿黛尔·穆斯科利诺

架构师提供的文本描述。2018 年 9 月 10 日，新的宿营地卢卡·帕斯夸雷蒂 (Luca Pasqualetti) 在其最终目的地安放并投入使用，在海拔 3290 米的贝卡·克雷瓦耶 (Becca Crevaye) 壮观的岩石洞旁边，位于瓦尔佩林 (意大利阿尔卑斯山脉西北部) 的莫里翁山脊 (Morion 脊)。

Text description provided by the architects. On the 10th of September 2018 the new bivouac Luca Pasqualetti has been placed and made operational at its final destination, the hardly accessible Morion ridge in Valpelline (northwestern Italian Alps) next to the spectacular rocky hole of Becca Crevaye, at an altitude of 3290 m.

Text description provided by the architects. On the 10th of September 2018 the new bivouac Luca Pasqualetti has been placed and made operational at its final destination, the hardly accessible Morion ridge in Valpelline (northwestern Italian Alps) next to the spectacular rocky hole of Becca Crevaye, at an altitude of 3290 m.

© Adele Muscolino

阿黛尔·穆斯科利诺

在 Valpelline(Valle d‘Aosta) 的 Morion 山脊上实现营地的任务和领土是当地高山导游 Espri Sarvadzo(当地方言中的“野性精神”) 的创意。沿着山脊，有一些非常了不起的，但基本上是“被遗忘”的路线。例如，从格莱山到贝里奥山的长途穿越。

The assignment and the territory

The project of the realization of the bivouac on the Morion ridge in Valpelline (Valle d’Aosta) is the brainchild of the local alpine guides Espri Sarvadzo (“Wild Spirit” in the local dialect). Along the ridge there are some really remarkable but basically ‘forgotten’ itineraries. For example the long traverse leading from the Col of Mont Gelé to Mount Berrio.

© Grzegorz Grodzicki

C.Grzegorz Grodzicki

这一项目的目的是通过稍微改善这些地方的登山条件，重新发现这些地方：一个简单的结构，例如一个营地，位于一个偏远的地方，很难进入，是专门构想出来的，以激发一种利基高山主义，对荒野和孤独的瓦尔佩林地方的美丽感兴趣，意识到高海拔环境所要求的承诺和尊重。

The aim of this project is the rediscovery of these places by lightly improving their availability for mountaineering: a simple structure such as a bivouac, positioned in a remote place with a difficult access, is specifically conceived to stimulate a niche alpinism, interested in the beauty of the wild and solitary Valpelline places, conscious of the commitment and respect required by high altitude environment.

© Roberto Dini

罗伯托·迪尼 (Roberto Dini)

通过 Cantieri d‘Alta 配额文化协会，导游的倡议满足了来自 Cascina(比萨) 的帕斯夸莱蒂夫妇的愿望，即将营地献给他们的儿子 Luca，这位伟大的山区爱好者于 2014 年 5 月不幸地离开了 Apuane Alps。

Through the cultural association Cantieri d’Alta Quota, the initiative of the guides meets the desire of the Pasqualetti couple from Cascina (Pisa) to dedicate the bivouac to their son Luca, great mountain lover, sadly departed on the Apuane Alps in May 2014.

© Roberto Dini

罗伯托·迪尼 (Roberto Dini)

为了支持这项行动，在 2017 年春季，成立了 Montagna Sarvadza 志愿协会。它的法定目的是“根据文化和环境的协同作用，通过对人与自然之间严格关系的认识，来评价和保护当地的山区环境”。

To give support to the operation, during the Spring of 2017, the voluntary association Montagna Sarvadza has been founded. Its aim by statute is the “valorization and protection of the local mountain environment through the awareness of the strict relationship between man and nature, according to a synergy between culture and environment”. © Grzegorz Grodzicki C.Grzegorz Grodzicki

莫里翁山脊把奥洛蒙河谷和比奥纳兹河谷隔开，由几十个尖峰和山峰组成，海拔 3000 米到 3500 米之间，从格莱山到贝里奥山。

The Morion ridge divides the Ollomont Valley from the Bionaz one and it is formed by dozens of pinnacles and peaks elevating between 3000 and 3500 meters, from the Col of Mont Gelé to Mount Berrio.

© Stefano GirodoStefanoGirodo

莫里翁人在景观方面享有优越的地位，在瓦莱山脉和瓦莱尔达奥斯塔南部的山上有着壮观的景色，包括比兰山、大康宾河、马特霍恩河、罗萨山和勃朗峰群。

The Morion enjoys a privileged position in terms of landscape, with splendid views on Mont Vélan, the Grand Combin, the Matterhorn, the groups of the Mount Rosa and Mont Blanc, on the mountains of Valais and of southern Valle d’Aosta.

© Grzegorz Grodzicki

C.Grzegorz Grodzicki

这一地区的不同路线不断地沉浸在一种严重和野生的环境中，这得益于山峰的隔离和山谷楼面的漫长道路，使其与最受欢迎的路线保持距离。

The different itineraries present in this area are constantly immersed in a severe and wild environmental context that thanks to the isolation of the peaks and to the long approaches from the valley floorskeeps its distance from the most popular routes.

© Grzegorz Grodzicki

C.Grzegorz Grodzicki

在 19 世纪和 XX 世纪之间，英国和瓦莱·D·托塔姆 (GeorgeAlfredTopham)、阿布宾 (住持) 亨利、ReinnatoChabod、AmilCareCriterTier、LinoBintel 等不同的登山者探索了该脊。中心摩尔根是第一次提升尝试的目标。1891 年 8 月 18 日，由于 FredrickBaker-Grabb 和 GuidesClemens 和 Zurbrigen，其征服发生在 1891 年 8 月 18 日。

The ridge has been explored between XIX and XX century by different alpinists from England and Valle d’Aosta such as George Alfred Topham, Abbé (abbot) Henry, Renato Chabod, Amilcare Crétier, Lino Binel. The Central Morion was the target of the first ascent attempts. Its conquest occurred on August 18th1891, along its east side, thanks to Fredrick Baker-Grabb and the guides Clemens and Zurbriggen.

© Grzegorz Grodzicki

C.Grzegorz Grodzicki

1943 年 9 月 2 日至 3 日，Alessandro Miotti 和 Toni Gobbi 完成了莫里翁脊的第一次完整穿越，而 Loris Rigollet 和 Patrick Rollin 在 2012 年 3 月完成了第一次完整的冬季穿越。

Alessandro Miotti and Toni Gobbi realized the first complete traverse of the Morion ridge from the 2nd to the 3rd September 1943, while Loris Rigollet and Patrick Rollin did the first complete winter traverse in March 2012.

© Stefano GirodoStefanoGirodo

今天，只有少数人在这种真正的高空旅行中动手，这至少需要 2 甚至 3 天，这取决于 PED 党的速度。新的 Vouvac 可以约 5-6 小时从避难克里特斯伦奇或 BivouacRegiondi 到达，并且允许将从东北向西南引导的脊的长横向分割开。

Today, only a few people try their hands at this true high altitude journey, that requires at least two or even three days, depending on the speed of the roped party. The new bivouac can be reached in around 5-6 hours from the refuge Crete Sèche or from the bivouac Regondi and permits to split the long traverse of the ridge directing from Northeast to Southwest.

© Grzegorz Grodzicki

C.Grzegorz Grodzicki

这座新结构位于海拔约 3290 米的岩石峭壁附近，靠近彭塔盖亚和贝卡凯雷瓦伊之间的马鞍，岩石上有其特有的洞。

The new structure is located near to a rocky ledge at about 3290 m of altitude, close to the saddle between Punta Gaia and Becca Crevaye, with its characteristic hole in the rock.

© Roberto Dini

罗伯托·迪尼 (Roberto Dini)

从 Mont Gelé向的 Col 出发的路线具有很高的登山难度，估计为 AD/D-包括一小部分冰川和混合部分 (从科勒到贝卡迪福德里，根据季节的不同情况而定)，并在山脊上继续，不断地暴露，与优质岩石交替，以更多的可移动和不稳定的岩石。

The itinerary, from the Col of Mont Gelé onward has a high level of mountaineering difficulty, estimated as AD+/D-, including a short section of glacier and mixed (from the Col to the Becca di Faudery, with variable conditions depending on the season), and continuing on the ridge, constantly very exposed, alternating sections with good quality rock to much more movable and unstable ones.

© Stefano GirodoStefanoGirodo

将营地放在 Becca Crevaye 旁边的选择受到以下几个原因的影响：1) 前来攀登或寻找高海拔“现代路线”的登山人员急剧增加；营地的安装扩大了这类攀登和行程的可能性；(2) 营地可以通过多样而富有挑战性的路线到达，它是一个有趣的旅游目的地和探索该地区的基地，具有显著的景观背景；(3) 到达营地的路线相当困难，因此，有一本高山指南可以用来评价当地专业人员的专长：整个过程的目标-- 从建造到营-- 由于其不同专业人员网络和其他服务及住宿设施，使当地微观经济得到了提振；4) 在距离的 1/4 左右建立一个完全穿越莫里翁河的基地；安装第二个营地 (如果数据证实成功地使用了第一个营地)，将允许在 Mont Clapier 和 Punta Fiorio 之间确定第二个营地。

The choice to put the bivouac next to Becca Crevaye was affected by several reasons:1) The sharp increase in the flow of alpinists coming to the area for climbing or looking for high altitude “modern routes”; the installation of the bivouac extends the possibilities of ascents and itineraries of this type;

2) Reachable through a varied and challenging itinerary, the bivouac represents an interesting destination and base to explore the area, characterized by a remarkable landscape context;

3) The itinerary to reach the bivouac is quite difficult, so it can be useful to go with an alpine guide, thereby valorizing the expertise of local professionals: the goal of the entire process – from the construction to the running of the bivouac – gave local micro-economies a boost, thanks to its network of different professionals and other services and accommodation facilities on the territory;

4) The realization of a base for the complete traverse of the Morion, at about 1/4 of the distance; the installation of a second bivouac (in case data confirm a successful use of the first one), in a position to be defined between Mont Clapier and Punta Fiorio, would permit to complete the operation.

© Adele Muscolino

阿黛尔·穆斯科利诺

在严寒的莫里翁环境中实现营地的项目和建造是一个非同寻常的设计挑战：建立一个与任何类型的网络隔离的结构，能够承受极端天气条件下持续的联合作用 (温度甚至低于摄氏--20 度，风速高达 200 公里/小时)，大量降雨和地面积雪) 需要建筑选择，其特点是最大限度的简单和有效，并在保护和抵抗方面具有很好的性能。

The project and the construction The realization of a bivouac in the severe Morion environment was an extraordinary design challenge: the setting-up of a structure isolated from any sort of network, able to withstand the continuous combined action of extreme weather conditions (temperatures even below -20°C, wind up to 200 km/h, heavy precipitations and meters of snow on the ground) required construction choices characterized by maximum simplicity and efficacy combined with a great performance in terms of protection and resistance.

高海拔地区特别难以进入和偏远，其特点是地形和地质复杂，需要仔细安排这样一个极端建筑工地的每一个后勤方面，只有在短暂的夏季才有可能，这必然会完善天气条件，并取决于仔细规划建造顺序和运输部件、人员和设备。

The high altitude context particularly inaccessible and remote, characterized by complex orographic and geological aspects, required a careful arrangement of every logistic aspect of such an extreme building site, possible only during a short period of summer and bound to perfect weather conditions, as well as dependent on the careful planning of the construction sequence and transport of pieces, people and equipment.

© Grzegorz Grodzicki

C.Grzegorz Grodzicki

每个组件都是根据其运输和处理在最后阶段的敷设和组装的直升机大小，寻找最大的轻盈相关的结构坚固性。

Every component was sized according to its transport and handling during the final phase of laying and assembly by helicopter, looking for the maximum lightness related to structural solidity.

© Roberto Dini

罗伯托·迪尼 (Roberto Dini)

营地的设计是完全可逆的，遵循最小环境影响的理念。这种结构在非永久性的基础上铺设，通过金属木工的地下室，以一种准时而非侵入的方式锚定在岩石上，并且可以在其生命周期结束时被拆除，而不会在地面上留下永久的痕迹。

The bivouac is devised to be completely reversible, following the philosophy of minimal environmental impact. The structure lays on non-permanent foundations anchored to the rock in a punctual and not invasive way through a basement in metallic carpentry and can be removed at the end of its life cycle without leaving permanent traces on the ground.

© Stefano GirodoStefanoGirodo

所有部件都完全干燥，不使用混凝土。它们是可回收的和生态认证的。材料和饰面的高质量保证了耐久性和耐磨性，保持了生活舒适性，降低了未来的维护。

All the components were completely mounted dry, without using concrete. They are recyclable and ecologically certified. The high quality of the materials and finishes guarantees durability and wear resistance, preserving the living comfort and reducing future maintenance.

© Grzegorz Grodzicki

C.Grzegorz Grodzicki

由预制车间生产的复合夹层板、木材和钢材制成的结构可分为四个部分，用于运输和搬运，以减少在高海拔完成最终组装作业所需的直升机飞行次数，在一个工作日进行冷凝。

The structure made by composite sandwich panels, wood and steel, completely manufactured in a prefab workshop, can be split in four parts sized for transport and handling, to reduce the number of helicopter flights needed for the final assembly operations at high altitude, condensed in one working day.

© Pellissier Helicopter

佩利西耶直升机

营地被设计成一个简单的棚屋，有两个音高，根据避难所的典型想法。此外，在景观方面，与经典的“阿波罗尼奥”式宿营地相比，具有锋利边缘的结构更适合莫里翁山脊的锯齿状地貌；通过金属包层的灰色色调获得与周围岩石环境的色整合，其特征是变质成因岩石的普遍存在。

The bivouac is designed as a simple hut with two pitches, according to the archetypal idea of the shelter. Moreover, in terms of landscape, a structure with sharp edges fits better the jagged geomorphology of the Morion ridge if compared to the classic barrel shape of the “Apollonio” type bivouacs; the chromatic integration with the surrounding rocky context, characterized by the prevalence of rocks with metamorphic origin, is obtained through the grey tone of the metal cladding.

© Grzegorz Grodzicki

C.Grzegorz Grodzicki

室内，被解释为与周围环境相对应的舒适和受保护的外壳，在人体测量上进行了优化，以便在一个很小的空间中舒适地生活。从分布的角度来看，入口位于一边，所以你可以从一个中心位置进入，并在白天和夜晚区域的内部创建。

The interior, interpreted as a cozy and protected shell against the surrounding context, is anthropometrically optimized to live comfortably in a small space. From the distributive point of view, the entrance is located on the side so you can enter from a centered position and create inside the division between day and night areas.

© Roberto Dini

罗伯托·迪尼 (Roberto Dini)

这样就可以在面向东方的主立面上打开一扇巨大的全景窗，这意味着更多的阳光、更多的光线和更温暖的内部温度，除了可以与贝卡·迪·卢塞尼、蒙蒂·罗莎和马特霍恩一起欣赏美妙的风景之外。

This allows the opening of a huge panoramic window on the main facade facing east which means more sun, more light and a warmer internal temperature besides the possibility to enjoy the wonderful landscape with the Becca di Luseney, the group of Monte Rosa and the Matterhorn.

© Adele Muscolino

阿黛尔·穆斯科利诺

入口处有一个小的外部壁龛，以帮助保护门不受风和沉淀物的影响，在那里可以储存棍子、冰轴和冰斧。

There is a small external niche at the entrance to help protect the door from the wind and precipitations where sticks, crampons and ice axes can be stored.

© Adele Muscolino

阿黛尔·穆斯科利诺

客厅面向景观，有一张桌子，有 8 个座位在凳子和箱子上；壁上的设备包括餐具柜、准备食物的表面和许多背包和攀爬设备的储藏室。

The living area, facing the landscape, consists of a table with 8 seats on stools and chests; the fitment integrated in the wall contains the sideboard, a surface for food preparation and many storage compartments for backpacks and climbing equipment.

© Grzegorz Grodzicki

C.Grzegorz Grodzicki

夜间区域位于后侧，由两个带有床垫的木制平台 (8 张床和毯子) 组成。

营地配备了一个小型太阳能电池板，电池照明最少。

The night area is located in the rear side and it’s made of two wooden platforms with mattresses (8 beds with blankets). The bivouac is equipped with a small solar panel with a battery for minimal lighting.

© Stefano GirodoStefanoGirodo

这座营地是由建筑师 Roberto Dini 和 Stefano Girodo 设计的，他们是都灵理工大学蒙大拿建筑研究所的研究人员，并与 LEAPFactory 合作，于 2017 年 7 月至 8 月在 Aosta 的一个木匠车间组装；它是用卡车运输的，靠近 L 施加湖 (Bionaz)，2017 年 8 月 27 日在帕斯夸雷蒂夫妇和许多来自 CAI Pontedera 的代表和来自托斯卡纳的朋友们的出席下举行了开幕式。

The bivouac, designed by architects Roberto Dini and Stefano Girodo – researchers at the Istituto di Architettura Montana of the Politecnico di Torino – in cooperation with LEAPfactory, has been assembled in a carpenter’s workshop in Aosta between July and August 2017; it has been transported by truck near the Lexert Lake (Bionaz) and inaugurated with a big party on the 27th of August 2017 in the presence of the Pasqualetti couple and a lot of representatives from CAI Pontedera and friends from Tuscany.

© Grzegorz Grodzicki

C.Grzegorz Grodzicki

安置岩石地面和安装基板的工程因即将到来的冬季而中断，并于 2018 年 8 月的第二年夏天结束。

The works for the arrangement of the rocky ground and the installation of the baseplate have been interrupted due to the upcoming winter and concluded during the next summer in August 2018.

© Grzegorz Grodzicki

C.Grzegorz Grodzicki

两个行动小组，一个上山，一个下山，于 2018 年 9 月 10 日在一个工作日内完成了运输和最后组装。

Two teams in action, one up and one down the mountain have completed the transport and the final assembly on the 10th of September 2018, in a single working day.

© Adele Muscolino

阿黛尔·穆斯科利诺

实现营地的事件被证明是不同人和不同现实之间会面和交流的非凡催化剂，将托斯卡纳和高瓦尔佩林联系在一起：一个“自下而上”的参与过程，这要归功于资助者的慷慨和志愿者的任性，他们克服了很少的资源-- 巨大的后勤和环境困难-- 建立了一个小型的、但非常重要的，有意识地去欣赏和发现这样一个美妙而狂野的领地。

The event of the realization of the bivouac proved to be an extraordinary catalyst for the meeting and exchange between different people and realities, connecting Tuscany with high Valpelline: a participated process “from the bottom”, accomplished thanks to the generosity of the financers and the willfulness of the volunteers that overcame with few resources huge logistic and environmental difficulties building a small, yet very important, piece to help enjoy and discover consciously such a wonderful and wild territory.

Architects Roberto Dini, Stefano Girodo

Location Bionaz AO, Italy

Lead Architects Roberto Dini, Stefano Girodo

Architecture Design Roberto Dini, Stefano Girodo

Area 13.0 m2Project Year 2018

Photographs Grzegorz Grodzicki, Roberto Dini, Adele Muscolino, Stefano Girodo, Pellissier Helicopter

Category Small Scale