时尚传奇 Olivier Theyskens 回顾展

Title: Olivier Theyskens – She Walks in Beauty

Posted In: Photography , Fashion , Fashion design , Exhibition

Duration: 12 October 2017 to 18 March 2018

Venue: MoMu – Fashion Museum Antwerp

Location: Nationalestraat 28, 2000 Antwerp Belgium

" She walks in beauty, like the night. Of cloudless climes and starry skies. " So begins the eloquent poem written in 1813 by the powerful pen of none other than Lord Byron . Also personifying the muse of Belgian fashion designer, Olivier Theyskens , this is also the apt title of his 20 year, mid-career retrospective that is currently being hosted until March 18th, 2018 , at MoMu in Antwerp , Belgium . The exhibition is described by the organizers as a "journey" through his career and includes an amalgamated selection of items from his very first label; from his time at Rochas and Nina Ricci ; covetable separates and outfits from Theyskens Theory ; and culminates with items from his re-launched brand, Olivier Theyskens . The museum's plan is laid out as part runway, part editorial with some very recognizable garments hauntingly worn to perfection by minimal mannequins.

Nina Ricci by Olivier Theyskens F/W 2007-2008, Photo: Sybille Walter, Encens Magazine, 2007 - Model: Hannelore Knuts - Styling: Haider Ackermann Hair & Make-up: Carole Colombani

Olivier Theyskens , September 2016, Photo: Thomas Deschamps.

Rochas by Olivier Theyskens , S/S2005, Photo: Diego Uchitel.

Olivier Theyskens S/S 2001, Photo: Thomas Schenk, Dutch Magazine, 2001. Visitors will spot a number of highly publicized and memorable garments, including that yellow silk gown (featuring 500 hand sewn hooks and eyes!) that Madonna wore to the 1998 Academy Awards which put the then new designer "on the fashion map." Videos of his runway shows and photographs also help to tell his story, so far, while an inspiring assortment of the designer's meticulously hand-drawn sketches and illustrations - just another piece of "evidence" - prove his great creative talents.

Olivier Theyskens S/S 1998, Photo: Jurgen Rogiers.

Drawing by Olivier Theyskens, Fall/Winter 1999-00. 

Olivier Theyskens for Rochas, Spring/Summer 2005-06. Photo: Ali Mahdavi.

Photo © MoMu Antwerp - Stany Dederen.

Photo © MoMu Antwerp - Stany Dederen.

Photo © MoMu Antwerp - Stany Dederen. Each display is catnip for any fashion lover, many of whom have already lost themselves in this enthralling exhibition. In fact, it's difficult to believe that a number of the garments featured are from collections that showed nearly two decades ago… a total testament to the timelessness that is Olivier Theyskens . One of the walls is painted black and features Lord Byron's poem which, fittingly, Olivier hand-wrote in white script who himself has said that his muse is a woman who " changes through time: she's romantic, mysterious, strong and elegant, both young and old, but she walks in beauty wherever she goes. A heart whose love is innocent! "

Photo © MoMu Antwerp - Stany Dederen.

Olivier Theyskens, Fall/Winter 1998-99, dress with high split in cotton toile used for upholstery, with hook-and-eye closure and train. Boots in cotton toile. Photo: Julien Claessens & Thomas Deschamps.

Olivier Theyskens, Spring/Summer 1999, dress in silk with hook-and-eye closure in the front in the shape of an open cross. Photo Julien Claessens & Thomas Deschamps.

Photo © MoMu Antwerp - Stany Dederen.

Olivier Theyskens, Fall/Winter 2000-01, jacket, dress, crinoline, shoes in silk moiré. Photo: Julien Claessens & Thomas Deschamps.

Olivier Theyskens, Spring/Summer 2000, leather jumpsuit consisting of separate bodice and trousers zipped together, with hood hidden in collar. Leather pumps flocked with sand. Photo: Julien Claessens & Thomas Deschamps.

Photo © MoMu Antwerp - Stany Dederen.

Photo © MoMu Antwerp - Stany Dederen.

Olivier Theyskens, Spring/Summer 1998, dress in vintage lace, trimmed with vintage silk ruffles and flowers, and briefs in vintage lace. Photo:  Julien Claessens & Thomas Deschamps.

Olivier Theyskens for Rochas, Fall/Winter 2003-04, evening gown and jacket in printed silk, with bands of flounced lace on top, in imitation Chantilly bobbin lace. Photo: Julien Claessens & Thomas Deschamps.

Photo © MoMu Antwerp - Stany Dederen.

Photo © MoMu Antwerp - Stany Dederen.

Photo © MoMu Antwerp - Stany Dederen.

Photo © MoMu Antwerp - Stany Dederen.

Photo © MoMu Antwerp - Stany Dederen.

Olivier Theyskens A/W 1999-2000, Photo: Les Cyclopes.